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  #1  
Old 11-03-2011, 02:41 PM
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82 240D Blower motor not working

I recently ordered a new fan switch from Phil and got it installed today, turned the key no fan. So I checked the #8 fuse it looked good, pulled it out just to make sure looks good. So I pulled the blower motor out and it looked fine, but just to double check I removed the blower motor from my 83 300D that I know works and still no fan? Is there anything else I can check...I really need that fan working it is cold down here and the 240D is my dependable daily driver.

Thanks in advance

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  #2  
Old 11-03-2011, 02:48 PM
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I think you are going to need to get an ohm meter or test light bulb and trace where electricity IS and is NOT going from the battery to your fan...

Are ALL other electrical things on your car working just fine ?

Also, in the mean time ... .you could hard wire ( with appropriate size inline fuse ) your blower with an on off switch in the car... it is probably already pretty cold up there....
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
...

Also, in the mean time ... .you could hard wire ( with appropriate size inline fuse ) your blower with an on off switch in the car... it is probably already pretty cold up there....
Good idea for a quick fix - but what would you suggest? It can't draw much more than an Amp or so... I've just checked vstech's look after your blowers thread and I can't see any power ratings on the blower motor I pulled...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305936-everybody-better-take-care-their-123-blowers.html

As the blower motors for cars with AC are different (says in the thread linked above) do you know if they need more power?
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Last edited by Stretch; 11-03-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:03 PM
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While the fan control switches are in position such that the fan SHOULD turn on, wiggle the key switch and see if it comes on. I've seen a flaky ignition switch cause this trouble before.
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:10 PM
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Army , I don't know what else you mean.... it seems that the electricity is not getting to the blower and tracing down the route it Should take...and finding the point at which it is not making that Next Step seems like the only logical method... perhaps I did not understand your question...
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Army , I don't know what else you mean.... it seems that the electricity is not getting to the blower and tracing down the route it Should take...and finding the point at which it is not making that Next Step seems like the only logical method... perhaps I did not understand your question...
Sorry I was referring to the in-line fuse quick fix you suggested (I highlighted the text but then lazily didn't remove the other information). What size fuse would be appropriate?

Like you say it would be best to protect any quick fix wiring with a fuse; particularly as in my experience most of my quick fixes become permanent features and then get called "character"!

EDIT - I've changed the quote in my first post to make what I'm on about a bit clearer (hopefully)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:19 PM
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I just fixed an 82 240 this morning.
pull the fuse cover, pull the #8 fuse, and look VERY CLOSELY at the holder end at the top, the center will likely have a bit of plastic melted sticking out of it. get a small knife, and clean it out, I bet your blower works again...
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  #8  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:27 PM
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Check for power at the #8 fuse. If it's hot, check for power at the switch. If that too is hot, then check at the blower resistors.

As for the quick fix, I just did one yesterday on mine, but I was able to wire it so that the power is routed through the original 16 amp fuse and the original resistor array. My meter measure current up to 10 amps, so I did some checking on the low and middle settings. I got up to 10 amps starting current with the setting I decided to make semi-permanent, which then drops to about 8. Consider yourself lucky you aren't dealing with ACCIII like I am.
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:28 PM
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Wow that draws way more power than I thought - thanks for the info Skippy.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
Check for power at the #8 fuse. If it's hot, check for power at the switch. If that too is hot, then check at the blower resistors.

As for the quick fix, I just did one yesterday on mine, but I was able to wire it so that the power is routed through the original 16 amp fuse and the original resistor array. My meter measure current up to 10 amps, so I did some checking on the low and middle settings. I got up to 10 amps starting current with the setting I decided to make semi-permanent, which then drops to about 8. Consider yourself lucky you aren't dealing with ACCIII like I am.
be sure you are checking the springy side of the fuse, not the riveted side...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #11  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:32 PM
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10 Amps doesn't surprise me, but I didn't know for sure and was afraid to doubt the 1 Amp statement for fear of attack.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:37 PM
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The rule on all these kinds of things for the fuse would be exactly the same fuse rating which it uses in the car.... Never ever bigger.....
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  #13  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:41 PM
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I always size the wire for the coolest spec based on the fuse rating.
so for a 16A fuse, I'd run minimum #12 wire this is overkill for a motor load, as the startup amps is why the fuse is large... unless there is a bind...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2011, 06:47 PM
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Wow...thanks for all the replies I appreciate it. I will check the fuse holder first then check it to see if it is hot. I will check that first and report back. Thanks again everyone!
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1983 300D Russett Brown, Euro Bumpers, Euro Headlights, Rear Headrests, lots of upgrades 256,000 (Sasha)

1980 300TD 200K Third row seat, original owner car with lots of documentation

We live in a world that goes faster every day and it seems there's a lack of time for each one of us
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  #15  
Old 11-04-2011, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
The rule on all these kinds of things for the fuse would be exactly the same fuse rating which it uses in the car.... Never ever bigger.....
Sure

But I was thinking that if fuse number 8 was say 16 amps what else is on that "circuit"?

I could be wrong - I don't have the wiring diagram to hand (or the will to check!) - but if other things are also protected by the same fuse a lower fuse rating for the blower motor "on its own temporarily rigged wire" would be appropriate wouldn't it?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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