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  #1  
Old 11-19-2011, 10:19 PM
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She ('79 240D) has been shaking quite a bit lately: I am replacing all engine mounts

With engine at idle speed when cold, my beloved 240D has been shaking a lot.
On close inspection, I have become aware that the passenger side motor mount is completely shattered - it's metal to metal - and the front mount is also pretty much gone. So I have ordered all four mounts, just to be on the safe side once I get to work under the car.
Luckily enough the '79 240D with manual transmission does not feature the engine shock absorber, one less thing to worry about...

Yesterday the UPS guy knocked on my door and there was a little package. Here's what was inside:

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On the top: the two SIDE MOTOR MOUNTS, aka front engine mounts in the FSM. They are identical.

Bottom left: the REAR ENGINE MOUNT, aka trasmission mount.

Bottom right: the FRONT MOUNT, aka engine stop in the FSM, aka front engine stop, aka t-strap mount, aka anti-torque mount. Different people give it different names ... after some initial panic and a bit of confusion, I was able to assign the various names they go by to each correctly so that I could confidently place my order.

Once I get the old ones out of the car, I'll post pictures so you can see the condition they are in.

First step is degreasing/pressure washing the engine and underneath the car, so as to be able to tell what's what and not get too dirty - will do that this Monday.
Then on Tuesday, hopefully, I will get down to business and replace them all.

I have the FSM and am following the procedures in 00-211, 00-212 and 00-215 to replace the mounts, and yes, I have already used the search function here as well, so I think I've got the whole thing pretty much down.
However, if anyone who has been there, done that, wants to contribute a few suggestions thought to be valuable, I'll definitely be more than glad to listen to your advice... this is my first time tackling this job and it seems sort of a big one, so it would be great to get all the help I can get.

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2011, 10:23 PM
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Got pics of the car?
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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piccolovic View Post
Got pics of the car?
Here you go

(As far as pictures of the old mounts as currently installed, I'll take them tomorrow after degreasing/washing the engine)

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Last edited by rino; 11-20-2011 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:58 PM
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I need to do this too, looking forward to seeing how it went.
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  #5  
Old 11-21-2011, 05:05 PM
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Both the engine and the front area underneath the car were degreased/washed early this morning at a car wash. Now everything is much cleaner and more visible. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to take pictures of the old side mounts while they are still attached to the car....they are far too below and out of sight for my camera.
In the picture below, however, you can see how that rubber line is being squeezed between the air filter housing (which came down along with the engine because of the shattered passenger side motor mount) and the upper shock absorber mount, and cut by that large washer.

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Obviously, the air filter housing is also being stressed because of the engine pulling it down against that structure. I imagine other components are also being affected by the engine coming that much down on the passenger side.

Tomorrow I'll get down to it with my first attempt at changing all four mounts. Wish me good luck, we'll see how it goes.
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Last edited by rino; 11-26-2011 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Correction
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  #6  
Old 11-21-2011, 05:11 PM
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By the way, the passenger side front shock absorber blew up a while ago, probably related to this situation. You can see how much damage a failed motor mount can do if left unattended. I'll be replacing both front shock absorbers next, after taking care of the engine mounts.
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  #7  
Old 11-21-2011, 08:31 PM
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Shocks can get expensive!!!
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1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2011, 11:15 PM
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I have the exact same car (79 240D) and did the two motor mounts a couple months ago. Still have the T-mount sitting in my garage waiting to get put in.

Remove bolts, jack engine up with a piece of 2x4 under oil pan, slide old mounts out. Engine should be jacked up enough you should be able to slide the driver side mount in (less access). Then I found the trick to getting the passenger side in is to grab the top of the valve cover literally push the the top of the engine toward the drivers side to gain clearance to slide the passenger side in... (I was using a large pry bar with one hand and trying to slide the mount with one hand to no avail...)

Remember removing the air cleaner assembly is a must with the passenger side. Please let us know how it goes, especially the t-mount as I don't even know how to install, just noticed the mount was shot when I was replacing the oil pan gasket...
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  #9  
Old 11-22-2011, 12:02 AM
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Uneasy, sure, I'll report back and give you the details.....
I might not be able to do it tomorrow as planned because something has come up and it will be a very busy day for me, but I'll definitely do it by Wednesday at the latest....it is stupid to keep driving the car this way, and this is my daily driver....
I believe it would be a very good thing to replace your shot T-mount ASAP.... Along with the transmission mount, it prevent the engine from rocking back and forth... If allowed to do that, it will destroy the side mounts you recently installed. Usually, the transmission mounts in our cars last forever, but not so with the front mount (engine stop). In most cases, when one of the two side mounts (or both) is shot, the front mount is also gone. I got a new transmission mount just in case.
Thanks for the tips....I'll definitely use them.

On a side note, I'll need to replace the oil pan gasket too, my only current leak is from there.....how difficult was that on your 240D?
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:40 AM
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Be sure to use a GOOD QUALITY hex wrench to remove the MM bolts. A cheap wrench can/will slip possible rounding out the hex and adding to your difficulties. PB Blaster, or similar, in liberal qualities may help.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:43 AM
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I have a high quality 8 mm hex socket and also good 6 mm and 8 mm hex keys. I'm getting a 6 mm hex socket today and while there I'll look into the PB Blaster, thank you for your suggestion.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:05 AM
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HELP!!!

I finally got under the car this morning and was able to remove the two engine bearer bolts from below (one per mount) thereby technically freeing the engine from the frame.

However, when I attempted jacking the engine up with a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan, the whole chassis began lifting up along with the engine.
I do not understand how that is possible...I need someone to help me figure out why the whole chassis lifts up along with the engine. With the two engine bearer bolts removed, the engine should be lifting up from the frame, freeing the side mounts so that they can be replaced with the new ones....but the whole car comes up when jacking up the engine via the oil pan.

Why is that?

By the way, when I first looked (not to closely) at the front mount, I reported that it was pretty much gone. However, taking a close look today, there is no front mount and front mount assembly to speak of under my car. The whole thing is gone - and there is no lower or upper strap, the whole front mount assembly is just not there... many thanks to the PO or whoever left this situation unattended to before him.
It's amazing to me that I could drive this car this way for the seven years of my owning it. Unfortunately, I did not even know that something was missing and should be there before learning about engine mounts these past few days, so I did not do anything until now to take care of it.

I'd appreciate it if someone here can help me figure out why the engine is not lifting from the chassis after removing the two engine bearer bolts. I looked very closely and nothing seems to prevent the engine from going up. Could it be that the rear engine mount (transmission mount) needs to be released as well? Nobody who has replaced the side mounts has ever mentioned in this forum having to do that, as far as I remember what I've read so far.

I'd appreciate some help with this...thanks.
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2011, 03:03 PM
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Assuming that you've got all four tires on the floor while you are doing this, a little rise of the whole front end as you take the load off of the springs by lifting the engine can be expected . If your mounts were really crushed, then you may have to raise the whole thing quite a ways to get the clearance that you need. The engine should rise eventually if your engine stop is disconnected. I hope you've taken the necessary steps of loosening the radiator shroud, disconnecting accelerator linkage, and having rear wheels chocked (both ways).
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:37 PM
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That's the funny thing....the engine just won't go up!
Yes all four tires are on the floor (front ones on low ramps with chokes, rear ones are blocked by the manual transmission being engaged in first gear).
I've raised the engine as much as 2-3 inches, but the whole car travels up with it, there is absolutely no added clearance to unscrew and take off the old mounts.
As I said there is no engine stop installed, not even the engine stop assembly is installed on the car.
The only thing I can think of, could it be the car has engine shocks installed and they are preventing the engine from being lifted?
Since the FSM states in several places that the 616 engine in type 123.123 chassis AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION absolutely comes with no engine shocks, I did not look for them... But will do that tomorrow morning, just in case the thing was messed up by some well-meaning ignorant fellow who took out the engine stop and somehow added the engine shocks. The FSM clearly states that the engine shocks should not be installed on this car with manual transmission.

Any other idea?
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:52 PM
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Yes thanks by the way, fan shroud and accelerator linkage were disconnected before attempting to raise the engine.
If it is as you say, how far up is the whole car supposed to travel (because of the springs) before the engine starts disengaging from the mounts? As the front end was raised about 3" by jacking it up at the oil pan, I was concerned that continuing to raise it that way, seeing the engine was not detaching from the mounts, it might break something.
You are probably right, as it makes sense.

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