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  #1  
Old 02-14-2012, 11:22 AM
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Question No start issue...please help

guys and gals,

85 wont start. turn key and nothing. do not hear solenoid being actuated.

this is an intermittent problem, and now ive got it not starting so i want to troubleshoot completely. batt and alt new and in good working order.

The starter will not turn when jumping terminal positions 1 and 3 together on passenger side near battery, but there is clearly current flowing due to sparking on screwdrivers.

Does this point directly to the solenoid?

thanks,
dd

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  #2  
Old 02-14-2012, 11:49 AM
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Yes, time for a new starter according to what you posted. You could try changing just the solenoid but you have to pull the starter to do so and you won't want to do that more than you need to.
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  #3  
Old 02-14-2012, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB-Owner-in-ind View Post
Yes, time for a new starter according to what you posted. You could try changing just the solenoid but you have to pull the starter to do so and you won't want to do that more than you need to.
My starter is a 1 year old Bosch reman.

Could someone double confirm my troubleshooting before I go pulling the starter?
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'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #4  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:06 PM
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Do you have a multimeter to make some measurements?

Have you tried whunter's remote starter switch trick yet to rule out the trans safety switch?
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  #5  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:26 PM
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Have multimeter, will measure.

Have not tried whunter switch (do you have a link for that?). I thought that by virtue of the key being in the 'run' position, you could jump the wires on the terminal block, bypassing the NSS and the ignition switch.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Last edited by dieseldan44; 02-14-2012 at 01:57 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2012, 02:16 PM
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Starter Test

I would use a pipe and bang directly on the starter while some one holds the key in the start position. If your banging gets the starter to turn. Replace starter as it is your solenoid. This will also work to keep you going every morning until you can get the new starter.
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2012, 02:19 PM
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Check for corrosion. On the strap from the engine to the chassis. Check for corrosion. On the battery cables inside wiring. check for corrosion at the starter on the starter cable.

After you've done that, check the nuetral safety switch
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  #8  
Old 02-14-2012, 02:27 PM
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don't bosch warranty their remans for more than a year?
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  #9  
Old 02-14-2012, 02:32 PM
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try the headlight test. turn the headlights on and have an assistant watch the headlights. turn the key, if the headlights dim then current is getting to the starter. obviously, if the starter is still dead...time for a new starter.

if the lights do not dim when you turn the key then the problem will most likely lie elsewhere....i.e. maybe a crank position sensor or a park-neutral safety switch.
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  #10  
Old 02-14-2012, 03:12 PM
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An inductive DC ammeter placed on the main cable to the starter while jumping terminals 1 and 3 would tell you if current is flowing to the starter. If it is, problem is at the starter.
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2012, 11:56 PM
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Have you checked the connections at the starter? If the little wire is loose it will cause an intermittently no start.
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2012, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Have multimeter, will measure.

Have not tried whunter switch (do you have a link for that?). I thought that by virtue of the key being in the 'run' position, you could jump the wires on the terminal block, bypassing the NSS and the ignition switch.
The thread I remember is this one

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2708342-post15.html

but I think there are others - if I can find some more I'll post back.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 02-15-2012, 07:46 AM
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update

throughly checked it out last night.

starter is drawing power. did not have a current probe to verify, but the voltage was applied to the starter. the voltage from the battery dropped from 12V to 10.16V when the key was put into the start position.

i slight tap to the solenoid resulted in a start.

ill check connections tonight. hopefully its simple...otherwise ill be checking out Bosch's warranty on starters.

thanks everyone, ill keep you posted.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2012, 08:47 AM
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now that it's started, you should take the jumpers and repeatedly jolt the solenoid. you may just have some cold grease in the bendix mechanism, keeping the starter from fully engaging... but if battery voltage is dropping that much, it sounds like a winding is bad on the starter. you could have a brush that's not touching, that would cause a high draw with no turn... but you say you hear no click? hard to believe the solenoid alone would drop the battery that much... you say 12V... EXACTLY what voltage is the battery putting out before you jump the solenoid? 12.xx?
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2012, 09:05 AM
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Hmmm - I don't want to be all doom and gloom but can you turn the crank by hand?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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