Engine info in title. Took the IP off to clean and paint it when doing my engine rebuild, and put a new timing chain and timing chain tensioner in as well. The engine ran poorly after replacing the timing chain but before removing the IP, so I knew it needed to be re-timed anyways. I tried moving it back and forth a tooth for an hour and gave up. Then I found a thread on here showing timing marks on the Injection Pump itself. 2 different ones. The OM606 had a mark to the left and the splined gear had to be 3 teeth off counter clockwise. The other picture was an OM617 and the mark was in the middle and he lined up the flat spot of the splined gear of the IP with the chisel mark in the IP. So this is what I tried for my OM617. I rotated the IP gear till it was 3 teeth off CCW, and let go, and the gear moved itself over to where the flat spot lined up with the chisel mark. I didn't get a picture, and my IP mark was MUCH different than this picture here, but it was a defined mark nonetheless, and I put the IP back in the block with the chisel marks lined up, and the drip timer finally dripped at 1 drip per second.



Okay, urgent question here. I'd like to get this verified by tomorrow evening so I can get this sucker fired up!! I tried setting the IP timing to 26 BTDC. Does this look like 26 degrees and does this look like the correct set up for timing? I've heard a lot better things about 26 versus 24 degrees, minus cold weather starts. I'm hoping to get rid of all my white smoke this way. Just want to make sure I'm not at 27 or 28 or something. I can easily rotate it over more and redo the IP timing. I haven't put the new IP gasket on yet as I want to only put it on once, and I can't put the oil filter housing back on till the IP is back on for good.

If you move your head around your screen, you can get rid of the glare on the 1st picture and see the numbers perfectly.