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#1
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Body Work Reference Request
Hi Folks,
Where best can I discuss doing some or having some rust repair work done. My 85 123 is just starting to show rust in the rear lower quarter from a previously neglected leak at the antenna. The front lower valence is also needing attention. I'm not a body man, could maybe learn but really I want to talk to some knowledgeable folks about how to intelligently go about fixing this before it gets too bad. If there are other forums here or at other sites where I can get reliable information I would much appreciate some pointers. Thanks
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. ![]() |
#2
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Check out Army's ongoing thread. Lots of very good info in there.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/303669-my-w123-saloon-sedan-old-accident-repair-bit-rust-repair-thread.html |
#3
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Whoa! Lots of info there! I'm not needing to go that deep but it is a great reference. I'd like to tear something apart like that someday though. My retirement project if I'm still alive. Maybe a small English car though.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. ![]() |
#4
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Too bad you're not here in CT. I've got the very best MB knowledgeable body and paint guy 10 miles down the road. He's inexpensive, too!
I just had him install new front and rear bumper chrome and go over the whole car. It looks like a brand new '91.
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Chief 1991 350SD |
#5
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Something to realize, many body shops won't do rust repair. Owners of older cars typically won't pay what it takes to cut out / weld in metal then paint and rustproof.
But, if the body shop does a quick reduced price repair, the car owner will cry that the rust came back. |
#6
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Where in CT? I'm in RI, 5 miles from CT line.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. ![]() |
#7
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Quote:
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. ![]() |
#8
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He's in Torrington, CT. If you are interested, send me a PM and I'll give you his number.
He shares the building with my indie, and does really nice rust repair. They had a '94 E320 last week that someone had just purchased for way too much money. It turned out the car had a ton of rust under the undercoat in the rear wheel housings. It was a real mess, but he had it fixed to perfection in no time. His paintwork is outstanding. He did one of my motorcycles that was featured in American Iron magazine a few years back, and I know he has done at least one concourse winning MGA.
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Chief 1991 350SD Last edited by ChiefRider; 05-09-2012 at 09:24 PM. |
#9
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Check the link in post #4
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/311980-how-fix.html I know there was also another recent(ish) thread where someone found a good panel in a JY and just cut the necessary metal out rather than fabricate a panel. There was also just a link about replacement sheet metal panels for the W123. Depending on scope of damage, that may be an option: buy a whole 'new' panel, but only cut out the necessary pieces to weld in place. That way you wouldn't be fabricating, nor would you have to hunt in a NE yard for a rust-free panel. |
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