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  #1  
Old 05-12-2012, 01:22 PM
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Have w123 rear caliper off - need help on removing pins and rotor

I see two pins - one side is fatter and indented somewhat (punch point?) and other end is narrower and sticks out further Also see the clip for the pads

Do I just punch thru from the fat end side to remove pins?

Also removed long bolt from hub - any tips from this point forward I've been baging rotor with a hammer to no avail and sprayed some penetrating oil to loosen it up
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  #2  
Old 05-12-2012, 01:34 PM
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Ok I figured out pins - punch from narrower side

As far as rotor I see an extra hole between the studs - whatever is in there must hold on rotor
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  #3  
Old 05-12-2012, 01:59 PM
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My car didn't have any fixing of the disc / rotor to the hub - you might find that there is a retaining screw fitted but I'd expect the parking brake shoes to be holding it in place. Lightly tap with a hide faced / plastic / rubber mallet whilst spinning the hub. It should come loose.
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  #4  
Old 05-12-2012, 02:01 PM
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the rotor just press fits on there, theres no bolt or anything. i think that hole you're referring to is just to align the rotor. try some penetrating fluid on there, if you're not going to reuse the rotor.. smash it with a hammer
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2012, 03:00 PM
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since I am in there - might as well replace this rear caliper I called an auto store and they wanted to know if it is bendix or ATE - all I can tell is that the side opposite where brake line hose enters caliper , has a mercedes logo stamped in it. Guy said brake hose side of caliper should have bendix or ATE stamped in there - cant see it using my 4 foot fluorescent lite. Any ideas - is this bendix or ATE?
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:13 PM
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Look at the pictures on fastlane
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  #7  
Old 05-12-2012, 03:31 PM
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Army

I do not see how to search fastlane forum - look like it is not an option in advanced search
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VickMorrow64 View Post

Also removed long bolt from hub...
That was a waste of effort and resources. The washer on that bolt is one-time-use and the torque is critical to bearing preload. And it has nothing to do with removing the rotor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VickMorrow64 View Post
...any tips from this point forward I've been baging rotor with a hammer to no avail and sprayed some penetrating oil to loosen it up
Disengage the parking brake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VickMorrow64 View Post
Any ideas - is this bendix or ATE?
The pins on Bendix calipers utilize hitch pin clips. ATE do not. From you previous description of the pins, it sounds like you have ATE.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VickMorrow64 View Post

I do not see how to search fastlane forum - look like it is not an option in advanced search
Click Buy Parts at the top of the page. Look two inches to the right of the peachy rotor.
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Last edited by tangofox007; 05-12-2012 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That was a waste of effort and resources. The washer on that bolt is one-time-use and the torque is critical to bearing preload. And it has nothing to do with removing the rotor.
... the bolt that holds the axle in, has a one time use washer and torque is critical to bearing preload? seriously?
I've GOT to get the FSM out on that one. If you are right, I feel very stupid...
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2012, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
... the bolt that holds the axle in, has a one time use washer and torque is critical to bearing preload? seriously?
I've GOT to get the FSM out on that one. If you are right, I feel very stupid...
I exaggerated the part about bearing preload. But the tensioning washer is most definitely one time use and the torque on the fastener is at least important, although perhaps not critical.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The washer on that bolt is one-time-use and the torque is critical to bearing preload.
Maybe you would like to offer some insight as to how the load path from that screw passes through the bearing.
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2012, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Maybe you would like to offer some insight as to how the load path from that screw passes through the bearing.
Evidently, my understanding of the concept was pretty bolted up. The apparent clamping effect of that fastener was just an illusion.
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2012, 02:38 AM
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an update from the author would be nice.. did you get the rotors off? what made you think you needed a new caliper btw?
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2012, 03:45 AM
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Here is removing the rear rotor and caliper. on a W126, but the same thing as the W123.

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Brake Pads & Rotors

Charlie
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2012, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepstar View Post
an update from the author would be nice.. did you get the rotors off? what made you think you needed a new caliper btw?
X2

And did you find the pictures in the fast lane catalogue? (Advice from a very different time zone sometimes comes with a slower response!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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