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  #1  
Old 11-01-2011, 12:04 AM
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possible sls work arounds for our wagons

I have been searching for a method to utilize a non wagon engine in a wagon and keep the sls system without swapping heads...specific case is a 1980 non turbo wagon

found some possible non mb solutions to provide for an external pump configuration

BMW E23 745i TURBO SELF LEVELING SUSPENSION PUMP | eBay

BMW E24 M6 L6 635 E28 M5 SELF LEVELING HYDRAULIC PUMP | eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300517744445


Last edited by neumann; 11-01-2011 at 12:14 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2011, 04:20 AM
layback40's Avatar
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The TE (gas wagon) has a hydraulic pump for the sls in the back of the PS pump. it fits & is the right capacity.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
The TE (gas wagon) has a hydraulic pump for the sls in the back of the PS pump. it fits & is the right capacity.
it fits? really? I've gotta go try this, I have a tandem pump from a TE...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:03 AM
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603s use a tandem pump too.
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
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  #5  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
603s use a tandem pump too.
yeah, but you are FARRRRRRRR more likely to find a used gasser wagon than a diesel one...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:56 AM
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Those pumps look like really intriguing possibilities. Do you know if they put out similar pressures to the MB pump and how exactly they work? Does the pump only activate when a switch calls for increased pressure or does the pump run the whole time the car is running? I don't think the pump would need to run full time for a 123 sls system. A switch in the passenger compartment to turn it on when a load was added to the back would be adequate I think.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2011, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I don't think the pump would need to run full time for a 123 sls system. A switch in the passenger compartment to turn it on when a load was added to the back would be adequate I think.
A generic convertible top pump will accomplish this.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2011, 10:34 AM
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Can one of those little pumps handle the high pressures?

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #9  
Old 11-01-2011, 04:47 PM
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Several years ago I bought a Euro TD with a bad engine and was in the process of converting it to a manual with a rebuilt engine. I bought a new convertible pump off ebay, had the hoses made up, everything installed then dropped the project when I found a Dodge PU to be my "road vehicle" (sleep in the back if necessary) Anyway I sold the TD to a guy from BC who later wrote me saying the system worked fine with a switch mounted in the glove box. He said something about not using the same filter, dont know why that was. The pump mounted very nicely down near the SLS fluid reservoir. But like I said I never saw it work with my own eyes.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2011, 05:09 PM
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What's the current draw of a convertible pump? Glowing and leveling on a cold morning might strain the battery.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #11  
Old 11-01-2011, 05:12 PM
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I just realized that the 1987 603 head I have sitting here is from a wagon. Never thought about it before. So, because of that is it different than the regular sedan head? IT's been fully tested and cleaned and is ready to bolt back on but if it's something rare maybe I should sell it to a wagon guy and look for a regular head instead.
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2011, 05:43 PM
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Here is a copy of the info I have in my file, in case I ever get another TD, oh wait This is where I got the idea.

"The pump is from a Chevy Cavalier I think. The pun’p has 3 wires. Ground and 2 power wires, 1 for each direction. It is a power up and down. You only need power up So pick one wire and note which way pump ‘pushes” the fluid. On the supply to the pump attach it to your existing SLS fluid tank.. On the hi pressure hose originally on your pump, attached to the head, unbolt it at the fitting by the coil spring tower. Measure the hose for new length, bring the hose and pump to a hydraulic shop, theyll put a new end on it to connect to the new pump.. connect it up and your done.
The electrical end is important. These pumps draw ALOT of juice. Use a relay (Ford starter solenoid is best) and wire it directly to the battery. Put a switch in the cab. When you energize the purr~ it will groan alot until the vahicle hits the height you selected ~Aa the arm attached ovar the rear dif. Once its there, it just recirculates the fluid, just like the factory pump. I nevar let it run more than 10 seconds at a clip. Pumps the car right up. If it gets too hot, It will shut down on its own till it cools."
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #13  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Here is a copy of the info I have in my file, in case I ever get another TD, oh wait This is where I got the idea.

"The pump is from a Chevy Cavalier I think. The pun’p has 3 wires. Ground and 2 power wires, 1 for each direction. It is a power up and down. You only need power up So pick one wire and note which way pump ‘pushes” the fluid. On the supply to the pump attach it to your existing SLS fluid tank.. On the hi pressure hose originally on your pump, attached to the head, unbolt it at the fitting by the coil spring tower. Measure the hose for new length, bring the hose and pump to a hydraulic shop, theyll put a new end on it to connect to the new pump.. connect it up and your done.
The electrical end is important. These pumps draw ALOT of juice. Use a relay (Ford starter solenoid is best) and wire it directly to the battery. Put a switch in the cab. When you energize the purr~ it will groan alot until the vahicle hits the height you selected ~Aa the arm attached ovar the rear dif. Once its there, it just recirculates the fluid, just like the factory pump. I nevar let it run more than 10 seconds at a clip. Pumps the car right up. If it gets too hot, It will shut down on its own till it cools."
Interesting! How do you lower the car back down once you remove the weight from it, or will it just bleed down on its own?
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
Interesting! How do you lower the car back down once you remove the weight from it, or will it just bleed down on its own?
The control valve bleeds it down.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #15  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
Interesting! How do you lower the car back down once you remove the weight from it, or will it just bleed down on its own?
I cant comment too much about this idea, just tossing it out as a possible solution if you have to use a non TD head. The pump was cheap and easy to install and not a big deal to have hoses modified. I would certainly try this before abandoning the SLS. Maybe the guy that originally posted this will turn up.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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