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  #46  
Old 09-30-2012, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zu! View Post
Wow! So you were driving around with all those little balls in the oil pan for over 50 k!! Nothing happened? No big bang, rattle or something?
foreign objects in oil pan are not a big deal, so long as they are larger than the holes in the pickup screen, and so long as there's not enough of them to restrict flow into the pump. i once found a complete mouse skeleton in vw beetle engine, looked to have been in there for years. car ran fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 Diesel View Post
No Im not a gambling man, just have no money. But I guess I should be looking for one.
don't be penny wise and dollar foolish. a new pump is a few hundred bucks. a new engine is a few thousand, plus the inconvenience of suddenly having no car and a massive repair bill.

which one of these is the more affordable option? with 270k on the odo, you *will* be selecting one of these in the near future....

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  #47  
Old 09-30-2012, 04:36 PM
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FYI

The oil pump chain was superseded three times on this (VIN#) engine.
General agreement from myself and several automotive engineers that have dropped by to see this = Oil pump chain elongation is the probable cause of this failure, but the vacuum pump bearing failure may have been a contributing factor as to when it occurred.

Best guess after forensic teardown/inspection:
* The oil pump chain shows severe elongation.
* The oil pump drive sprocket teeth are (chain wear) damaged beyond use.
* The crankshaft oil pump drive sprocket teeth need to be cleaned and inspected for damaged.

Here is an example of the oil pump drive sprocket tooth chain wear/damage.
Sprockets: I ended up buying a Nighthawk 450-Page 2: Off-Topic Discussion forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

Related information
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/163604-timing-chains-dont-last-forever.html

Preliminary parts list:

Roller chain, oil pump, brand "IWIS" is in my opinion the only rational choice.
MB# 0039977494
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

Sprocket, oil pump drive
6031810112
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

Oil pump
MB# 6021800401
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW



Possible additional parts needed

Crankshaft gear
MB# 6060520003
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

Crankshaft Seal, Front
120 997 03 46
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW


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  #48  
Old 09-30-2012, 08:17 PM
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Makes me glad that I replaced the oil pump chain and sprocket when I replaced the timing cover a few years ago. At the time I was wondering if it was worth the hassle as the old parts appeared to be fine, but at least now I don't need to worry about it...

Pics of the shiny new chain and sprocket on my OM603.960 motor:




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  #49  
Old 09-30-2012, 08:51 PM
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More pictures


























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  #50  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:07 PM
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... wow. I bet that sprocket is not supposed to have a diamond shaped hole in the center...
please take some pics of the new gear!
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  #51  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:24 PM
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I don't know. Seems that the tensioner would take up any slack that the elongation may contribute unless the tensioner was down to the spring. With that said, and if there was some wear in the chain, it seems plausable that something could have gotten hung up between the sprocket and chain to break it.
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  #52  
Old 10-05-2012, 12:07 PM
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More damage found

Here are damage pictures of the three main, AND one rod bearing.

All taken with a better camera.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN SURFACE.




MAIN BEARING SURFACE.








CRANKSHAFT ROD SURFACE.


ROD BEARING SURFACE.







.
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  #53  
Old 10-05-2012, 12:10 PM
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oil pump sprocket

Here are BETTER damage pictures of the oil pump sprocket.








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  #54  
Old 10-05-2012, 12:13 PM
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and all or most of that damage was caused by a ball bearing falling down from the vacuum pump? Or was the more going on?
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  #55  
Old 10-05-2012, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torsionbar View Post
foreign objects in oil pan are not a big deal, so long as they are larger than the holes in the pickup screen, and so long as there's not enough of them to restrict flow into the pump. i once found a complete mouse skeleton in vw beetle engine, looked to have been in there for years. car ran fine.
read some threads where the balls have worked their way thru the screen
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  #56  
Old 10-22-2012, 01:18 AM
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update

New parts have arrived:

* Three new main bearings.
* Oil pump.
* Sprocket, oil pump drive.
* Rod cap bolts.
* Roller chain, oil pump, brand "IWIS".
* Crankshaft gear.
* Crankshaft Seal, Front.

Now to begin flushing the oil galleries.


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  #57  
Old 10-22-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300D85 View Post
read some threads where the balls have worked their way thru the screen
Did you find the missing bearing? Is it possible that it did not fall into the pan, but got carried up into the valve cover by the chain and went down a galley in the head?
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  #58  
Old 10-22-2012, 02:22 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur View Post
Did you find the missing bearing? Is it possible that it did not fall into the pan, but got carried up into the valve cover by the chain and went down a galley in the head?
Still looking for it.



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  #59  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:29 AM
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update

Bought a 40+ year old one ton engine stand, NONE of the new 750 - 1200 pound rated stands survived more than 12 hours before bending..

The crankshaft is out.
Aluminum fragments from the failed pump where found in the oil oil galleries.

This is an old trick.

I will be soaking the crankshaft bearing surfaces with "Easy-Off oven cleaner".

There is a light coat of ALUMINUM on three of the crankshaft main bearing surfaces..

Here is a thread that describes the simple procedure.
Aluminum stuck on crank, chemical to remove it?


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  #60  
Old 11-01-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Bought a 40+ year old one ton engine stand, NONE of the new 750 - 1200 pound rated stands survived more than 12 hours before bending.
Ha! I put an OM603 (longer/heavier) on a Chinese stand rated at 1000 lbs during my timing cover fiasco about 7 years ago. It bent forward enough to scare me into propping it up with a bottle jack and assorted wood as shown here and here. I later picked up a 2000-lb rated stand which is dead solid with an M119 mounted (here), but I haven't yet tried an OM603 (think it would be ok though).

I'd definitely recommend looking for an older, preferably US-built stand, like you had to do. If buying a new Chinese stand, get one rated at least double or preferably triple the expected load (i.e., 1500-2000 lbs rating, for most MB motors). Then you'll have even more fun when the mounting tubes are too short and you have to pull the flywheel to get the engine to bolt up (on some motors, like the M119). Don't ask how I know...



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