Now, you are done all the "removing" part of this operation. So far, you have done very little. You,

1. Removed the braided return line;
2. Removed the steel lines;
3. Removed the injectors; and
4. Removed the heat shields (old ones).

You're about half way done, and all you need to do is reverse the process

1. Install the heat shields. Remember, the groves should be seen upon installation. When I was in the military, I had some great instructors. They always had what appeared to be these silly memory tricks. However, those memory aids always came in handy when you needed them most. So, if it's grovey or you're in the grove when you look into the injector hole, then you installed the HS correctly. Again, I like to work in an assembly line fashion. Pop in all of your HSs at once, 1 by 1.

2. Reinstall the injectors (rebuilt ones / serviced ones). I like to twist them in by hand until tight. I try to do this with every single car project since it avoids cross threading. You should get a number of turns before they are "tight". I doubt one could cross thead an injector, but I try to use the same process just in case.

3. Torque them. No more than 59 foot pounds. I set my torque wrench at 57 since by the time I hear the tone alarm and slight vibration, I am at 58-59. You do not need to own a torque wrench. You can rent one for free at Autozone, et cet., It will be a click type of torque wrench, but that is all you need. Since I tinker a lot on cars, and some torque specs are pretty low, e.g., 10 ft pounds, I like the Snap On. Again, pop one in after another. Then, torque them one after another.

The last picture is where you should be in this operation. You're almost done now, since all that is left is the braided lines and then the steel lines.

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In the beginning of this discussion, I mentioned removing the braided lines. I like to nibble it off from the sides with a pair of plyers. Very easy and it seems to be the safest way to remove braided line without the risk of breaking something.

Since you have your injectors installed at this point, I like to install the braided line first. I sort of eyeball it and cut each piece. 1 meter is enough for the job. Again, I start from the front of the engine and work your way back. Very easy process.

Then, it's time to install the steel lines. I like to do the process like I removed them. Make sure you seat the coned end into the injector and the same for the IP. As for the stubby at #5. That is nothing more than a barbed piece of metal and 1" or more of return line. You can rebuild your own in seconds. You do not need a new one. Everything associated with injectors is simple

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