Pulled the IP and oil filter canister to replace gaskets. The first time I replaced it, I just set the balancer disk to 24-BTDC and lined up the markings on the IP pump, mounted it, drip timed it via swiveling, etc. and bolted it up. The car wouldn't start for anything, not even after multiple bleeds. So I thought about what I did, and realized that I didn't check to see if the cam lobes were pointing up in the compression stroke position when I set the engine at 24-BTDC. So I pulled the pump again, and opened the oil filler cap and watched the lobes pointing up, set the balancer disk to 24-BTDC again (this time certain I was on the compression stroke), lined the markings on the IP spline and housing, mounted the IP, and then proceeded to do the FSM drip tube timing method once again.

This time, though, I encountered a problem: I can't get fuel to come out of the drip tube what-so-ever. I removed the valve and spring inside the number one port and put the drip tube on, loosened the union nut atop the filter housing and primed the secondary, and still, no matter how far advanced or retarded I swivel the IP nothing will come out. The primary filter does, however, this time have a big bubble in it, but is reasonably full. When the primer pump is pushed (new style pump) it makes a sucking noise as if it's completely pressurized behind it, on the engine side of the line. I then see air bubbles in the return line from the back of the IP to the secondary filter housing. The fuel tank is over half full. Should I try making an elevated test tank to place above the IP for purposes of gravitational flow? Shouldn't seem to matter in my opinion. The primer primes, the IP just doesn't seem to want to cooperate. Have I messed something up?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

you're probably off by a tooth, it's very easy to bump it while reinstalling. Also, some IPs are marked incorrectly and need to be offset from their timing marks.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Pulled it, checked it, was on mark. Put it back in, still no dripping at drip tube. Checked my IP tag for #251, the Nov. 1982 production IP with the gearing mark in the wrong spot. Mine is in the correct spot.

What should I do? I'm getting no drips, nothing, no matter how far I swivel the pump. What I've thought about doing is bolting the pump on and rotating the engine a couple degrees to about 22 BTDC to see if I can get any drips.

Would chain elongation/stretch cause the timing to be advanced or retarded? How do you compensate for this when installing the injection pump? I don't think that's the issue, though, because before removal, the pump was timed to 25 and seemed fine.

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

Ah, carp. I guess spinning the motor around a bit would be the next course of action-you've covered the stuff I would suggest it seems.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Should I just bolt it on snuggly, spin the crankshaft all the way around again to about 40-BTDC on compression and then slowly advance it to see how far off it is? I guess I could advance it a couple of degrees now and see if I can't get anything. If I remember correctly: no fuel flow from drip tube means too far advanced and needs to be retarded, correct?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

You said you tried to start it; meaing that the Delivery Valve was put back into it.

When you did it the 2nd time did you remove the center Valve on the Delivery Valve and Spring?

Also you should turn the Crank Clockwise till you get to 24 degrees BTDC then you look for the positon of the lobes camshaft Lobes. Neither Lobe should be straight up. One should be at about 11 o'clock and the other at about 2 o'clock. Sort of making a V.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes. They are presently stored in a jar of PowerService to keep from getting dirty.

Yeah. I guess I mean they are more 'straight up' than the exhaust stroke when they are pointing down toward the valves. 11 and 2 is exactly right.

I'm done messing with this for today. Working on a graduate thesis. May get around to rotating the engine tomorrow to see if I can get anything to come out of the spout. I'm going to advance it a degree at a time, but my guess is, I won't see any results until I get all the way back around on the compression stroke around 30-40 BTDC.

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

Timing the IP to the crankshaft automatically eliminates the chain elongation factor from the IP/crankshaft relationship.

That's right. 'Twas me, I would pull the IP off in the max retard position and remount it in the max advance position and adjust from there.

Will try that later this afternoon if I get a few minutes.

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1983 300CDT -- 177K