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#16
03-23-2013, 10:20 AM
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the rear wheel is super easy to diagnose, all you have to do is remove the tire, remove the caliper, remove the rotor, and look at the hub for signs of overheating etc... if it's brake pads, you'll see it... if you see good pad material then further inspection will show what is bad. and post your location please... really, if a member lives near you, they will likely come help! you live in a very large community, populated with many MB'ers (yes, I can see where you live... muhahaha!!!)
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! 
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#17
03-23-2013, 01:46 PM
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The arrangement of the hardware in the rear wheel well of a W123 is quite simple and once the rear wheel is removed, quite accessible. I do not believe spraying some WD40 or the like "around" back there did doodley squat, other than possibly impair the function of the brake pads, especially if the amount sprayed around did not wet the brake disc. If the disc was actually wetted the pads are history.
Once the tire is off the surfaces you can grab to turn the wheel hub will give you precise feedback on what is or is not rubbing. I have had a stone get between the inside shield and the disc and make some horrible noises. The stone that can get in there and make the noise has to be pretty small, and then it can be ejected by any of a combination of events, none of which would be influenced by spraying with a lubricant. If as the wheel hub turns you can't feel any sign of rubbing, and you confirm the pads and disc are not damaged or worn down to the point where the pad backing is hitting the disc (check the very outside diameter of the disc as this surface can rust and swell, while the disc wears down to a smaller thickness just inside the OD edge and lead to contact between the pad backing as this ridge grinds away pad material faster than the flat surface contact patch), I would figure it was a stone that got in and has now left. If you actually drenched the pads it is time to replace them and clean the disc off to avoid contaminating the surface of the new pads. If there is any indication of drag or there is drag for part of the rotation, it is going to be apparent where it is coming from. Ignoring issues affecting safety equipment, and brakes qualify is not a good practice. Brakes also can get quite hot. Having them soaking a potential "fuel" is probably also not a good idea. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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#18
03-23-2013, 02:31 PM
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#19
03-23-2013, 02:33 PM
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...big brother IS vstech!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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