I have a rear noise that I heard for the first time this morning. I jacked up the passenger rear where the noise seems to be coming from and put the car in neutral and turned the wheel. The noise seems to be coming from the CV joint on the rear axles or the rear differential. I noticed the CV boots are ripped on both sides. I was planning on doing the rear brakes soon.

Does it make sense to pull the axles when I pull the rotors?

If it is making this much noise, can I still pull both axles and replace (4) CV boots and grease and sill use them?

Does autozone rent the tool to expand the boot?

How do I confirm if it is the CV joints or the differential?

What is the risk of driving it home on the highway with the noise / Could the CV joint lock up and cause a lot of damage?

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85 300D Turbo

Are the boot just cracked or split open? If split open, then dirt, water etc... can get in and grind away and destroy the joint. then it is best to replace the axles.

If they are not compromised, yes, you can remove the axles and replace the boots and refill the oil or grease.

As I remember when I had one making noise, it made a clunking sound. then if I backed up some, then went forward it would stop for a while.

I don`t think the MC Parts stores rent the boot gun to replace them. there are some members that rent the gun.

If the boots are cracked bad, I have seen where some member wrapped them in Duct tape to limp along for a while.
they can clunk along for a while, but the more you drive on them the more damage that can be done, best to fix/replace them soon.

You do not have to remove the Rotors to replace the Axles, or remove the Axles to replace the Rotors.

Charlie

I had a rumbling sound in the 240, and it was the Differential. There was pretty sparkles of metal in the oil when I drained it. removed the rear cover, and noticed the 2 Spider Gears were wobbly on their shafts. then it was a matter of replacing the Diff.

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Tool Rental Program - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

ok, if the axles are clunking, it's unlikely putting new boots on will fix it.

I do sell rebooted axles that were NOT compromised... lemme know if you need a set, just send me a PM.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Autozone only sells the Dorman Boots. I have them on Mine but they are expensive if you buy them from Autozone one at a time.

Als the grease packet that comes with the Dorman Kit is only about 1/3rd of what you need if you decide to use grease.

If you have an Air Copressor Available once the Old boots are off you can get a Solvent Sprayer and a Gallon of Solvent and wash out the insides of the Axle and let it dry before you grease it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

They boots are split open. Looks like a need to just replace the axles. Sounds like if one seized on the highway I could loose the differential too?

Napa shows two different sizes:

CV compressed length 26 1/16"

CV compressed length 24 13/16"

Is there a way to find out without pulling it first and measuring?

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85 300D Turbo

I would venture a guess that your axles are too far gone......here's what I did as a temporary measure:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3092844-post42.html

BUT --- the car actually would WOBBLE when I drove it at very low speed --- which went away after I replaced the axles.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Hmm, the 123 should use the 24"
the 126 likely uses the 26.
I can measure one of the 123 axles I've got if you decide to go that route, but beware of chinese junky axles. you'll be replacing them again in a few months...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I am going with some Chinese junky axles from Advanced Auto and am going to loctite all the bolts.

$100 for a set with free shipping with coupon code. I will give updates on this thread on how the axles hold up.

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85 300D Turbo

You really roll the dice with that choice. A pair of used axels with the boots intact are a much better choice usually. Add a little more lubricant to them. Put them on the oposite sides to what they were installed on in the donar car.

You are then probably looking at a long time frame of use. Or if you must replace with chinese for some reason. Take the axel that is still good on your car and install the new chinese wonder on where it was and put the remaining good one in the position of the failed unit.

There is no reason to change them both anyways if only one is bad. There is more than an even chance that your current still good one will outlast any chinese replacement. Almost gauranteed to if you add a little more lubriant when you have it off to install on the otherside. You need used axels or just one with still sound uncracked boots though.

If you get some of the worse of the chinese axels they could be very hard to install or may last only a matter of weeks. It is too bad things are as they are. There is no consistancy with those axels. Some last for quite awhile and others just randomly fail with no way of predicting what you buy will do.

This is the kind of product that gives china a bad reputation for parts. I have stopped installing any chinese front wheel drive bearing assemblies. Far too many of them were noisy in less than a month. They were designed for a selling price point not as a usable product basically.

All good points. That is a good idea. One option is I reboot the the side that has not cracked and re-grease.

Roll the dice? Safety wise or nuisance (getting stuck or having to redo the work) ?

I commute in the car so breaking down is not an issue. I will just get a tow. I hear what everyone is saying about getting some stock axles but it is just not practical. I don't have time to search junkyards or pay $200 more for some used ones. Also I think the whole idea of using oil instead of grease is a good idea as far as lubrication but far worse idea for longevity. I have never seen rubber being used to contain hot oil in a car. Anyone have an example? I don't have extra money to spend if the Advanced Auto axles will last a few years.

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85 300D Turbo

The original lubricant was oil. This to me is far superior to grease. As grease gets old it is displaced from the bearings. Many times for example when changing a front cv joint on a front wheel drive car you will see this. In fact it is the probable reason for the failure of the joint.


Failure of the boots is not oil related I believe. If they are made of neoprene and I expect they are. They are pretty well immune from attack by petroleum products.

Personally if the oil lubricant remains in the boot 300k or more is quite possible with the original high quality joints. Might even be good preventative maintenence to add a little to the outer joints on thirty year old cars. I cannot see it doing any harm.

A large syringe and a plastic tube on the end of it. Remove the inside clamp. Insert the small tube between the boot and axel. Squirt some 80-90 weight oil in. Put on a new clamp and you are done if the boots are still in decent shape.

Before the first long trip with any 123 type aquisition I do this. It is substantially cheaper than having a partially dried out joint fail while away from home.

You only need one axel really unless that boot on the otherside is terrible. Negotiate for a used axel. Fifty dollars should do it for one axel with good boots still on it. Although prices may be different in your neck of the woods has to be a given.

I got both new axles from Advanced Auto (ToughOne New CV Axle Shaft Assembly - P/N NCV48998 ) installed but couldn't get the c-clip installed without removing the spacers on both side.

The bolts in the axles appear to have anti-seize on them so I am removing them one by one and applying some loctite.

Anyone know the torque spec. for these bolts?

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85 300D Turbo

I just used an oiled up transmission fluid funnel to get new boots on

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint