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  #1  
Old 03-31-2013, 12:02 PM
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Oh wow. I wasn't aware. THis is clearly a major fail point after a while then. Unless you consider an LCA which lasts for 30 years a success. I guess I would. I just hate to have to pay my mech for this labor. Looks like a pain to remove this LCA. I would bet he wants two hours' worth of labor. I'm tempted to buy a pair of new rear shocks while I'm at it, but I don't feel like paying for 4 hours' worth of labor. I'd do it myself, but it looks harder to do than the one on my 190e. That one was cake compared to this. I'm going to take the advice and keep driving it for now. He welded it all the way, plus welded two rectangular spare peices of metal as braces. My big fear is that as I drive on the freeway one day, BOOM!
That was a Pic of one of My own driver side Lower Control Arms. It had rust Holes in it which is actully typical.
In My case I hit a 3 Inch high Traffic Island and finished it off.
I reaplaced it with a used Control Arm.
I did drop unbolt the drivers side of the Sub Frame to get it out.

I don't think you actually need to remove the whole Subframe.

My Passanger Side also had 2 rust Holes. I Welded those over when I Welded the Rear Body Cross Member. However, I have another used Control Arm for that side.

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Old 03-31-2013, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
That was a Pic of one of My own driver side Lower Control Arms. It had rust Holes in it which is actully typical.
In My case I hit a 3 Inch high Traffic Island and finished it off.
I reaplaced it with a used Control Arm.
I did drop unbolt the drivers side of the Sub Frame to get it out.

I don't think you actually need to remove the whole Subframe.

My Passanger Side also had 2 rust Holes. I Welded those over when I Welded the Rear Body Cross Member. However, I have another used Control Arm for that side.

.
Do you agree with stretch that the weld job is a much more temporary fix than i think? Maybe I should post some pics of this fix so you guys can see what the weld looks like
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Sev View Post
Do you agree with stretch that the weld job is a much more temporary fix than i think? Maybe I should post some pics of this fix so you guys can see what the weld looks like
Not a bad idea - but the problem that we have is that we can't see inside the hollow trailing arm to see if there is more rust in there.

User JamesDean has done loads of work on his trailing arms - worth a search
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:21 PM
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Do you agree with stretch that the weld job is a much more temporary fix than i think? Maybe I should post some pics of this fix so you guys can see what the weld looks like
On the one I welded I Just welded one small rust hole and a tiny crack that was up against the actual casting. So the areas I welded were not in stressed areas.

Since yours was badly cracked I would say it is ready to give out on you any minuite.

When I welded up the cracked Crossmember on the Body. I welded up the crack and then I welded two 1/8" thick Plates over the Crack to spread the stress over a large area of the Plate.
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