![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
In My case I hit a 3 Inch high Traffic Island and finished it off. I reaplaced it with a used Control Arm. I did drop unbolt the drivers side of the Sub Frame to get it out. I don't think you actually need to remove the whole Subframe. My Passanger Side also had 2 rust Holes. I Welded those over when I Welded the Rear Body Cross Member. However, I have another used Control Arm for that side. .
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
User JamesDean has done loads of work on his trailing arms - worth a search
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Since yours was badly cracked I would say it is ready to give out on you any minuite. When I welded up the cracked Crossmember on the Body. I welded up the crack and then I welded two 1/8" thick Plates over the Crack to spread the stress over a large area of the Plate.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|