Pretty much what the title says. Went to my local bearing house, told them I need 626 bearings, and explained that should they fail they will destroy several thousand dollars and to provide high quality bearings accordingly. Photos of what was provided follow, are these acceptable?

Note: Shield is removable per bearing datasheet and bearing house.

Note2: www.shrinkpicture.com is awesome for converting 1.5+ mb photos to something appropriate for the forum.

Thanks all!

I also have an interesting new noise since this venture, will start a new thread for that.

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The updated pump doesn't use a ball bearing style bearing IIRC. It uses a machined cylinder type bearing.

Would that be a sleeve bearing? That type of bearing has poor life compared to a ball bearing, all the force is focused onto one side. Ball bearings move around and distribute any wear because of small pressure points that move constantly during operation, extremely long life is possible if the steel was properly hardened and the bearings are all of similar diameter.
If the new pump doesn't use ball bearings I would be very interested in it. I think the improvement wasa to close the sides of the bearings so if the balls wear down the races they can't fall out and get into the timing chain, etc./

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Sorry, but it is absolutely impossible to tell the hardness of the components of the bearing and the quality of the grinding operation from a photo of the bearing.

The recommendation is to stay with the reputable manufacturers such as INA, SKF, FAG. etc. They have some sort of quality control. Most of the remaining stuff available is Chinese junk. The distributor who sells it to you has no more knowledge about the bearing than you do.

Nobody else on this forum can provide any more information on the construction and the materials used to construct the bearing in your photos.

Thanks for the replies.

Brian-

I had hoped that the photo of the box w/ the label would have provided some information. You'll notice I did indeed source SKF brand bearings.

In other threads, people have mentioned that bearings with 6 balls should be found and that 8 balls were undesirable. Metal cages is a plus, which is why I provided the photos.

Sorry, I didn't look at the box.

If you have SKF, you can be reasonably sure of durability. I'd go with it.

We use SKF almost exclusively for our jet engine tooling. Their quality control is unmatched.

Thank you sir, sounds good.

Uh, hey Brian, read this thread and comment!
Chinese SKF Bearings!!!

Seems Chinese SKF bearings have been a problem in some tractors. Mentions possible pirated parts. Why am I not surprised?
Reid

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I've just bought some SKF 626-2Z bearings for my vacuum pumps. On the label it says made in Italy. It could be the same as the "made in Germany" labels on Febi stuff - who knows.

In my opinion I don't think it matters where the components are made; what matters is how unscrupulous the people who own the brand name will behave. That is difficult to judge.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The post implies that the SKF bearings are illegal copies of SKF.

I'd have to question why an illegal operation would go through the trouble of copying the SKF packaging nearly perfectly and then put "Made in China" on the box? It would have made more sense to put "Made in Austria".

If the bearing was actually made in China by SKF, I would trust their quality control to produce the product that they designed. Not everything made in China is necessarily garbage. It all depends on the investment and the training by the manufacturer.

I'm hoping that the end result of this thread will be a good online source for bearings and a list of the brands and part numbers that would be appropriate replacements for our vacuum pumps.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

How many balls, 6 or 8?

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

SKF and Timken offer several quality grades of the same bearings. I would guess the Chinese ones are while copies area lower Grade.

That is likely the same with other Bearing Companies.

I would use a Chinese Wheel Front Wheel Bearing or as I did on My Alternator but on the Vacuum Pump or the Rear Wheel Bearings I would use the best quality I could get at a resonable price.

Once you have the Bearing Number you can go to eBay and source out some that have the Company and Country they were made in.

When I made a comment in the past about using the Shielded Bearings on a Vacuum Pump People said the Shield would inhibit Oil from getting to the inside of the Bearing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

pic clearly shows 8. wrong bearing.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I saw that, I was wondering about Stretch's bearing.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"