83 300D window switches hate me. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dugudas · #1 06-02-2013, 03:29 PM

I have gotten soooo much from this forum site and thank you all for taking your time to help people you don't even know.

Now, I have searched and searched but found no solution to this problem. I pulled the window switches from my center console for a cleaning, now they don't work. They have power I'm assuming because when I turn on the headlights the switches lights power on. It's not the fuses or relays either. None of the switches (including the ones in rear doors) will operate their window. What in the world have I done wrong? Please help, my windows are stuck down and it's spring so rain is in every forecast.

MBeige · #2 06-02-2013, 10:29 PM

Check the window relays behind the instrument cluster. Instrument cluster has to be removed first.

Also, the driver side combination switch has the center button for the rear "child lock" function. This also provides the GROUND for all windows to work. I would make sure this one is working properly too.

What was wrong with them to begin with?

dugudas · #3 06-03-2013, 12:54 AM

The only con to having a sunroof is that it will be left open. The buttons were starting to stick but all windows still worked. I have cleaned it once before maybe a year ago so figured it wouldn't take long. Took out, cleaned and put back in. I just tried the child lock and it is stuck in the "up" position. More than likely I am to blame seeing as how they worked until I opened the button and sabotaged. Will have to look into how this button works and ties into everything. If the button doesn't stay down then did I break something?

Thanks so much, I have new hope.

Brian Carlton · #4 06-03-2013, 01:37 AM

Look on the plug that you disconnected from the console switch.

Find socket numbers 1 and 2. They will be indicated on the face or the side of the plug.

Ground socket #1 and apply 12V to socket #2 and the window will go up.

..........keeps the rain out until you figure out what you did...........

dugudas · #5 06-08-2013, 04:40 PM

Brian, forgive me for taking soooo long to respond... Family issue had me tied up and away from the car. Thank you VERY MUCH for the tip. I'm all but positive it's the "child lock" button on drivers switch that is causing a ground issue. Will most definitely be using the socket 1&2 trick to roll them up until I figure out how to resolve the child lock ground.

dugudas · #6 06-09-2013, 07:55 PM

Okay, replaced the window relay behind instrument cluster and got the front passenger to roll up... Fuse "b" blows now though killing frnt drvr/rear pssngr windows. The previous owner has something aftermarket wired from +battery to fuse "b" (pic 1). I opened the fuse and it was blown so I replaced it with a new one. I brought the blown one in to make sure I got the same one (20amp). I put in a new one and it blew immediately, another one and the same result (pic 2)... I'm not versed in electrical at all but a short must be to blame, right?

Also, when I cleaned the switches I must have sabotaged the "child lock" and lost a part or broke something because it won't stay depressed. It looks like something on inner part of lock switch should catch the outer part to stay depressed (pic 3 & 4)... Does anyone know if that is the case? If the lock switch grounds all the windows then is this where my issue really lies?

I tried the 12v to socket 2 and ground to socket 1 to roll up windows but no love. I did disconnect the battery before doing all this and had it disconnected when I attempted the trick, does that matter?

I have tried really hard to figure this all out via book and online to keep from bothering you all with my problems but I just don't know what to do now... Any help would be appreciated more than you probably realize. Thanksabunch!

dugudas · #7 06-09-2013, 08:09 PM

here are the pics

MBeige · #8 06-09-2013, 08:15 PM

Something isn't right. Fuse "b" should only be a 16A:

20A for a window fuse? That's too high. Use only the red or white (forgot which is which but they're 8A or 16A only). The next one is a blue 25A. Not sure why you have a 20A fuse there.

Do you have the fuse diagram on the fuse box cover? This should list the fuse rating and color you need for the specific application.

What happens if you remove the aftermarket wire going to the fuse box? Does this still lead to a blown fuse "b"? Use the correct 16A fuse!

dugudas · #9 06-09-2013, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBeige

Something isn't right. Fuse "b" should only be a 16A:

20A for a window fuse? That's too high. Use only the red or white (forgot which is which but they're 8A or 16A only). The next one is a blue 25A. Not sure why you have a 20A fuse there.

Do you have the fuse diagram on the fuse box cover? This should list the fuse rating and color you need for the specific application.

What happens if you remove the aftermarket wire going to the fuse box? Does this still lead to a blown fuse "b"? Use the correct 16A fuse!

I have the 16A fuse in the fuse panel... The 20A is in the red wire in pic 1 that goes from +Battery to fuse "b". I don't know what the wie is for, it was there when I got it?

dugudas · #10 06-09-2013, 08:37 PM

I took off the red wire and fuse "b" still blows. When I put a new fuse in the red wire it blows as soon as it connects.

Brian Carlton · #11 06-09-2013, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dugudas

Also, when I cleaned the switches I must have sabotaged the "child lock" and lost a part or broke something because it won't stay depressed. It looks like something on inner part of lock switch should catch the outer part to stay depressed (pic 3 & 4)... Does anyone know if that is the case? If the lock switch grounds all the windows then is this where my issue really lies?

I tried the 12v to socket 2 and ground to socket 1 to roll up windows but no love. I did disconnect the battery before doing all this and had it disconnected when I attempted the trick, does that matter?

First of all, the child lock has no effect on anything but the two rear window switches. The entire console will function properly without the child lock.

Secondly, describe your exact test when you applied 12V to socket 2 and ground to socket 1. If you did this properly, the window MUST roll up unless the motor is burned out which we know is not the case.

dugudas · #12 06-10-2013, 01:10 AM

This is how it went down step by step... Hopefully you will recognize my error. I disconnected the battery and the red fused wire coming off it. I made 2 wires (pic 1) and used a flat connector on one end of each. I used a pliers to fold the flat ends so they would fit in plug (pic 2). First inserted the ground wire into socket 1 (passenger rear plug in console) and grounded it to metal top of wheel well behind washer fluid reservoir under hood. Then connected 2nd wire to + terminal on a spare car battery and inserted other end into socket 2. Pic 3 shows both wires in sockets but didn't connect to battery this time since just trying to give you an idea of what it looked like... Listened for any kind of sound but heard nothing. Front passenger window still works but none of the others. I hope that's the info you were looking for...

Brian Carlton · #13 06-10-2013, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dugudas

I disconnected the battery and the red fused wire coming off it.

and grounded it to metal top of wheel well behind washer fluid reservoir under hood.

If the battery was completely disconnected (both + and -) you cannot complete the circuit by using any ground on the body. You must return all the way back to the battery.

Many "grounds" on the body are not conductive. Try running both + and - wires directly to the battery and repeat your test.