Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-19-2013, 01:14 AM
Stugist's Avatar
Weekend Wrencher
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Western Washington, USA
Posts: 118
Clutch - It just doesn't feel the same

Well I finally got the clutch bleeding SNAFU sorted out...kind of...it works now, at least! Little niggling things, now. Before this all happened, my clutch pedal felt firm...I assume like factory. It only traveled about a millimeter or so before you felt the resistance. I liked it; it was a sign that that it worked great and I was assured that I could shift soundly. Now....the pedal travels about 1/3 - 1/2 the way down until the clutch actually disengages. While it works, I'm wondering why the sudden change...I -think- I bled the system out all the way, but how can I be sure? Per the Haynes manual, I read the short tidbit about setting pushrod clearance (I had to take the MC out to re-bleed it...don't ask why ) via the eccentric bolt. Well, there's no locking nut; it's just a bolt/washer and that's it. After about an hour of fiddling around with it, no change whatsoever.

I'm assuming SOMEONE has had this problem before...no lying now

EDIT: I've been driving the girl for about a week now w/o any mechanical issues.

__________________
- 1979 W123 240D 4-speed, 390k miles

Last edited by Stugist; 06-19-2013 at 02:02 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-19-2013, 11:51 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5,923
I am not that familiar with these clutch systems but it sounds like you may still have some air.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-19-2013, 04:25 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
You bled the system by the brake slave to clutch slave method?

I would bleed the system again.
I think you should have had more than a mm of free play.
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-20-2013, 01:59 PM
Stugist's Avatar
Weekend Wrencher
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Western Washington, USA
Posts: 118
I've tried bleeding the clutch some more using the caliper slave/clutch slave hose method. I'm not getting any return fluid to the MC reservoir. Clutch still feels the same. It almost feels like there's a pocket in the clutch MC that can't be filled with this method...
__________________
- 1979 W123 240D 4-speed, 390k miles
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-20-2013, 04:20 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
I used that method quite a bit and finally got it down so it was dependable. I Put hose clamps on both ends of the clear hose, opening both bleeders (box end wrenches on both slave nipples) then from outside the car pumped the brake pedal by hand like crazy, crawl back under, shut bleeders, if there no clutch repeat. Make sure the clutch pedal stays up. Is that more or less how you did it?
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-20-2013, 07:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5,923
I liked someones suggestion of using a finger pump type can oiler. Just make sure it is either new and really clean before putting brake fluid in it.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-20-2013, 10:57 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Using some method like the squirt can to push the fluid up through the system instead if using the brake slave is like comparing bleeding brakes the old fashioned way compared to using the pressure bleeder, except the squirt can is cheaper than a pressure bleeder.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page