Hood Hinge springs. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Graham · #1 07-10-2013, 09:50 PM

After repairing rusted hinge pockets, I am in process of re-attaching lower part of hinge and spring. Passenger side for starters.

Had some difficulty lining up pin with bushing on inner wall, but got it in and attached the spring clip (Doesn't look like one on EPC drawing).

But I have forgotten just how the spring attaches. One end has a short hook and the other a long hook. There are three possible attachment points on hinge lever.

Anyone have a picture of the hinge and spring?

bricktron · #2 07-10-2013, 10:20 PM

my springs seem to hang out in the lowest attachment point of the hinge arm. i don't know why (and nor are my hinges in good shape). no pic, sorry, but i figure the long hook arm is the one which reaches the hinge assembly since it has to slide in and out of position there.

JHZR2 · #3 07-11-2013, 12:24 AM

Not to hijack your thread (and I can take pics and post on Friday if you dont have them by then), but what did you do to repair the hinge pockets, and how did you paint and rustproof?

My 240D only usually gets wet if I wash it, but I have noticed that while the metal is 100% strong and perfect in the hinge pockets, on the body (inner side) of mine, the paint is flaking off... Of course since this is a rust area, I want to be sure there is paint as a protectant, and then rustproofing over it as a first-line of protection...

But it seems hard to work in there, especially if youre going to apply paint. Did you spray or brush? How did you have enough room to prep? Did you re-do seam sealer (dont think I need to do that, but just in case)?

Thanks!

Stretch · #4 07-11-2013, 01:05 AM

My hinges - like brickton's - were on the lowest.

I think the shorter end of the spring went on the hinge because you need to wiggle it onto the hinge. When I was messing about with W123 hood / bonnet hinges they were tight; really tight; almost mole grips and lots of sweat and swearing tight.

When you've perfected the art and I've nearly got my W123 back together again please come and fit mine!

Stretch · #5 07-11-2013, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Not to hijack your thread (and I can take pics and post on Friday if you dont have them by then), but what did you do to repair the hinge pockets, and how did you paint and rustproof?

My 240D only usually gets wet if I wash it, but I have noticed that while the metal is 100% strong and perfect in the hinge pockets, on the body (inner side) of mine, the paint is flaking off... Of course since this is a rust area, I want to be sure there is paint as a protectant, and then rustproofing over it as a first-line of protection...

But it seems hard to work in there, especially if youre going to apply paint. Did you spray or brush? How did you have enough room to prep? Did you re-do seam sealer (dont think I need to do that, but just in case)?

Thanks!

Here's some links showing my troubles so far

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/286079-w123-hood-bonnet-spring-pocket-refurbishment.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/287176-w123-hood-hinge-repair-nightmare.html

and one from chad300tdt showing more rust and how to repair it with out welding

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/231360-hood-hinge-drain-rust-repair.html

toomany MBZ · #6 07-11-2013, 08:27 AM

Here's a pic I have on hand.

Graham · #7 07-11-2013, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Here's a pic I have on hand.

Thanks. I was mostly interested in the other end, but your pic does confirm one thing - the open side of the hooks should face down.

My hood is vertical at the moment and spring attachment looks strange, but perhaps it is correct?

Graham · #8 07-11-2013, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Not to hijack your thread (and I can take pics and post on Friday if you dont have them by then), but what did you do to repair the hinge pockets, and how did you paint and rustproof?

I accessed the pocket by setting the hood vertical. I tied it up the rafters for safety. I then removed the hinge pin (it has spring clip on engine side) and swung the hinge up out of the way. have to disengage spring first. (see pic below)

I was able to get at most of the surfaces by hand or with a small wire brush. I also had an extension on my Dremel type tool that makes into something like a dentists drill. Used that with rotary file to get at area round spring attachment.

My pocket had holes in bottom that led both out into fender as well as down inside car. These holes could be seen by looking up on passenger side above EGR computer and in similar location on driver side.

I first coated everything with POR15 (and DOM16, a similar product), then laid up fibreglass patches using same paint as resin. There were few remaining seams, but I did fill the ones remaining with POR-patch. The holes were also closed on opposite side from pocket - one side by welding and other with fibreglass/POR.

I can't emphasize enough the importance of inspecting, cleaning and treating those pockets. I suspect that the water that came in there found it's way down and rusted the floor pans near the door sills (documented in bodywork forum)

toomany MBZ · #9 07-11-2013, 10:37 AM

Yeah, hook down.

Zacharias · #10 07-11-2013, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

My hood is vertical at the moment and spring attachment looks strange, but perhaps it is correct?

If you mean with the spring end hanging unattached that way, yes with the hood vertical that is how it looks.

As long as everything is aligned, the spring should catch smoothly as you return the hood to normal-open and then closed positions.

I know on my old wagon I have to pay attention as one side is a bit off and doesn't always want to catch, when coming off full-vertical.

toomany MBZ · #11 07-11-2013, 12:35 PM

Mercedes 90 degree hood opening. - YouTube

This may help, my SD, but the hinge is the same.

barry12345 · #12 07-11-2013, 12:41 PM

Lubricate those hinge pins. Go back in and oil them ever year. If they seize they will tear a portion of the sheet metal mount out.

Graham · #13 07-11-2013, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zacharias

If you mean with the spring end hanging unattached that way, yes with the hood vertical that is how it looks.

As long as everything is aligned, the spring should catch smoothly as you return the hood to normal-open and then closed positions.

I know on my old wagon I have to pay attention as one side is a bit off and doesn't always want to catch, when coming off full-vertical.

Got it done tonight. I only had one of those rubber donuts and I forgot to put it on anyway. Not sure what they do - probably stop rattles?

Learnings:
- The spring can be inserted after the hinge pin is clipped in place.
- Spring goes in with small hook on bracket in back of cavity.
- long hook end runs on outside of hinge assembly. (If it somehow ends up on inside, you can partly close hood and move it to proper side).
- Mine long hook is in the middle hinge attachment point.

Lubed all hinge points with ATF.

Thanks to all for answering my questions.

toomany MBZ · #14 07-11-2013, 11:27 PM

Happy motoring.

Stretch · #15 07-12-2013, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

Got it done tonight. I only had one of those rubber donuts and I forgot to put it on anyway. Not sure what they do - probably stop rattles?

Learnings:
- The spring can be inserted after the hinge pin is clipped in place.
- Spring goes in with small hook on bracket in back of cavity.
- long hook end runs on outside of hinge assembly. (If it somehow ends up on inside, you can partly close hood and move it to proper side).
- Mine long hook is in the middle hinge attachment point.

Lubed all hinge points with ATF.

Thanks to all for answering my questions.

So small hook on the bracket and not the hinge then? That's not how I remember how mine was. My memory could be playing tricks on me - is there a reason I've missed or forgotten?