I've just ordered a whole set of seals for this gear box made by Elring (Elring part number is 597.899). The set costs just under 27 euros (cheapest I could find) - I hope it has a bit more than just the front and rear seals! At present I don't know what the kit contains - bit of a gamble but it might come good.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Probably will have the middle gaskets also, o rings, and side seals where applicable. That price beats the 96 bucks I paid for two shaft neals, 3 gaskets, some o rings and a few other incidentals.

The second time I took apart my 411 to fix a synchro spring (which reminds me, those fit specifically into the synchro a certain way even though its a simple steel wire component, if you don't put them back right the spring will be chewed to bits in a couple shifts and you'll have trouble shifting for that gear) , I just used rtv gray instead of gaskets, and o rings from the local parts store, which worked well also

The spring I goofed up was I belive for 4th gear synchro, right where the input and output shaft join. The spring is pretty basic, but I think it has a little hook on one end, and that hooks around a boss on the brass synchro, I wish I had a pic, but it should be self explanatory as you look at it. Anyway, if its not held in place by this feature and can rotate, it gets chewed up pretty fast

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...since I ordered the sealing kit for the gearbox. It arrived today - about a week later than promised.

It looks quite good - may be a bit strange with paper gaskets instead of the plastic ones that were there originally but they are marked with a thickness...





The plan is to start the rebuild in about two weeks or so.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

ok, found some parts to take a pic for you for reassembly-

first pic shows the 4th synchro brass clutch, and the light torsion spring in front of it. 2nd pic shows how the assembly is supposed to go together. Hook in the torsion spring points up into provision in the brass clutch.

If this piece is not hooked in the clutch piece (which is the mistake I made), what will happen is the torsion spring will be destroyed in the gearing pretty much immediately. From a drivability standpoint, this issue will present itself as a from 5th to 4th gear downshift grind, unless very slowly engaged or double clutched.

Shifting up from 3rd to 4th will be fine, but the downshift is the part that becomes a problem. the torsion spring in my .411 was reduced to about 30 tiny pieces, but I did drive it almost 12k before i took it apart. The issue is not really destructive unless you try and force the downshift, its more really really annoying, as it slows down the shift a lot. The pics are from a .412 gearbox.

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