You should start a new thread for this information request, or send a PM to MB DOC to get that person's response.
Sorry, I've never done that job and hopefully won't have to.

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles

THanks! I have a puller but I don'tknow if it would do. I just read athread from hunter that describes it not a DIY job. Wheew? It needs to be pressed in and out? The thread details in a 124 not a 123 body. I have to experiment. It is really hard if I don't have a FSM. Do you think it can be a doable DIY?

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79' 300D auto
79' 300D manual

This can be an advanced DIY job

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Excellent write up. I will add this to my CD of articles. Copy and paste into Microsoft Word, then convert to a PDF file. Burn to CD.

I guess nobody really knows how to do it. All this blather about cautions and can't do it when nobody knows what expertise and equipment one has access to. Either you know or don't know. Share.

Sparky

I suggest you read the excellent DIY.
Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearings
on the 1985 300D (W123)
by dmorrison
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings


There are hundreds of members that have done this job.

It is easy to do wrong, and is NOT a simple DIY for beginners.

Setting bearing preload (crush washer) correctly takes time, skill, and special tools.

After you do it once, you will understand why.

it only took me 2 tries to get it right. :p

the second time only took about 90 minutes. I did have the outer bearing already pressed onto a spare hub (IMHO, this is one part of the job that is easier to farm out to a shop-unless you have a press)

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

I suppose that I expect more from folks that want to try. I expect more than, "righty-tighty". I havn't done this task but I have wrenched for over fifty years and I do have access to presses, lifts, gauges, special tools etc and know how to use them. Crush washers are used on other various bearing installations and if there is unfamiliarity, I'd expect one would ask a good mechanic what they are all about and how to use them. If the DIYer then wants to try, they should. If they are intimidated, they should investigate further and not be put off by those who try to shoo them off by declaring the job too critical without sharing. Proud experts retain their exclusitivity by not sharing. Job security. Those who know need to pass on their knowledge, not keep it for their own aggandizement.

Sparky

I have not been a Forum Member for full 2 years yet but my opinion is that majority of the Members sincerely try to help the best they can.
I also feel that with DIY you are home schooling yourself and in my opinion the best place to start the schooling is buying the FSM CD if available for your vehicle..
This Forum does a good job of filing in the gaps in the FSM and often gives innovative ways of doing the job often without the special tools.
If the information available in this Forum falls short of being useful to me it is up to me to do some more self schooling and develop some new skills; or not.
It is also given that I do not have to follow advice and others do not have to give me advice if they do not want to.
And, certainly no one has to listen to my advice or opinions either.
Best Wishes

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Any thing that I have to say on the matter is in the thread Dmorrison posted, which has already been linked to on this thread. He has done an excellent writeup on the matter, it is there for all to see. there is no reason to re do what has been done so well.

all it takes is some time researching and you can find just about every job you would ever need to do on these cars has been done by someone else, and they are willing to share their experiences gladly. I dont think that there are very many infosnobs on this fori, but trolls on the other hand.......

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Agree, the search feature provided for our use is wonderful, and helps avoid endless postings of bull****.

I just did this job on my '85 300D. The only difference was I had a machine shop press the old/new bearings off/on. Worth the few dollars in labor. I'm replacing the side and pinion seals at the same time. Alan

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DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, DON'T BE A HACK
Political Correctness is NOT part of my vocabulary
and finally FIGHT CRIME...SHOOT BACK

'82 240D Stick
'85 300D Auto
Drove my first MB at age 16 1960 300SL W190

I agree that the postings on this site are wonderful and have steered me out of a jamb many times and I am always greatful for the contributions that knowledgeable folks have shared. I would definately not be as much of a MB fan as I am without the insight and background learned here.

Today I find myself right at the gate of what has been discussed. I went into the shop to replace a c-clip on one of my half shafts. Got her up on the lift, opened up the diff cover and found both c-clips intact and in place. Scratch head and thankful I didn't have the problem I thought I had----but, of course, it was worse. I had driven the car about 60 miles on I 90 and an out-of-balance feeling started & got more pronounced. I slowed to take the ramp to a familiar town to see what was what and I heard the clicking sound of a bad CV jount. I figured I had lost a joint boot and figured to grease it up and drive home for repair. Got it on a lift to find everything intact but, the right half-shaft had more in-and-out play than appeared the left side had. Drove home (60 mi.) and scheduled a lift appointment at my friend's shop. got her up today and, after discovering that the half shaft needed to come out, I dropped the right wheel bearing assy. and attendant parts had to come off to get the right end out of the wheel bearing . Now, the car is a 450sel 6.9 which has a lot of unusual parts to it and the lower susp. pivot shaft had to come off with the wheel bearing carrier. That pivot shaft is, perhaps what others have referenced, I think. Came apart nicely with some mallet hits but ruined the outer seal. Will get that , of course. Seems that the inner CVjoint was very stiff but not sloppy at all. Called the guy at CVJ Denver and he explained that they get that way sometime when they are taken out of the usual wear pattern. too bad that the rest is just fine---no where near the sloppiness I saw on a couple of my 300CDs. So, they are shipping me one---can you believe they had one in stock for a 6.9? ( They said they were surprised also) Now, as for the seal---is this the one that caused all the cautions re the crush washer?? I saw one on the inside, where the jamb nut threads on---looks like a thick washer with three ears? We have the technology to spec the end play, so, no problem. I was just wondering if that was the subject of the previous cautions re having only one shot at it?

Sparky

I know zero about 116 gassers however I saw this thread see post #3:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=242221&highlight=manual

somplace on the site listed in post #3 there is supposed to be access to a 116 manual. However, I have never been there to know for sure. The poster; Member rs899 would have more details.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What are the reasons on replacing the real wheel bearing? How do you know yours is bad? Do you have vibrations? ? Thanks!

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

Possible symptoms:

* Excess wheel run-out
* Grinding/growling
* Wandering (unstable rear tracking)