I get that these things were built to be removed contiguous with engine block, but seems folks here have been separating and removing transmissions without undue challenges - but for the life of me I can't get the damned thing out.

At this point, it's hanging, swinging between pinion into engine at front end and flanges off the bell housing up against firewall - rear end is dropped and free, but the thing wont' drop out.
No, I don't know what I'm doing but rolled up my sleeves anyway, and now up the proverbial creek without a wrench of a clue what to do.
As I have a replacement tranny, I reluctantly cut off the dip stick tube in hope that would give me some more freedom, but didn't help. So at this point, even if I manage to get it out, will need levitation skills to get the replacement back in!

Grease upto me eyeballs for a week trying to get my baby running again...
What am I missing here?
The car is up high enough on 12t jack stands.
made a tranny adapter for the floor jack, but that's fairly redundant at the moment.
Do I need to figure out how to loosen engine mounts? Is that the only way?

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97 RAM2500 Cummins affair. Big longass lifted biodiesel thing. Too big. Too spendy - got rid of it. Sure could pull some weight though.

the torque converter is held into the bellhousing with a plastic nub on the drivers side opposite the starter. pull that and the trans should drop free of the TC...

then you need to put the new TC on the transmission and be certain it's seated fully into the front pump. lift, push, rotate, clunk, rotate a full revolution, clunk, rotate again another full rotation, and the third clunk into position.

have fun.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Did you unscrew the torque converter from the flywheel?

After verifying you've done what vstech and Govert suggested, if it still doesn't want to drop out I would suggest you losen (don't remove) the motor mount bolts. Place some boards somewhere on the front of the motor that will allow you to jack up on the front of the motor to tilt it down in the back. This will allow you a bit more room to manuver things around.

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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

Not meant as a smart remark. You did get all the bell housing bolts?

Shift linkage?
Trans cooler lines?

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Bowden wire?

SOMEBODY must live close enough to slide by his place and take a look. I am about as far from him as I can be and still be in the USA. We need a volunteer!

Dan

Really appreciate your responses.

I did find that plastic nub on the replacement tranny on the ground, pulled it, and the donut/torus (that's the torque converter, right?) pulled away free. (Interesting bit of kit.)

The existing old tranny is free of all attachments, but swinging loose apparently between those points mentioned and not dropping free. The existing old donut/torque converter is still attached fast to the engine/flywheel (that large diameter toothed wheel, right?) and seems fixed, not rotating. (I did say I am clueless right?) - not seeing any way to loosen that.

Better look for the engine mounts next, see what they looks like.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks!

Nik

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97 RAM2500 Cummins affair. Big longass lifted biodiesel thing. Too big. Too spendy - got rid of it. Sure could pull some weight though.

There is an access hole in the front face of the plate that faces the engine oil pan. Behind that you will find 6 bolts that hold the TC to the flex plate. I have still been able to pull them with the TC bolted to the flexplate, though (not the right way)

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

oops. why I should stick to landscaping. sheared the head of that first bolt - I was upside down, back to front, directionally challenged. So assuming there's no shank on those bolts, it's going to hold after I get the other 5, so gonna have to get clever with my drill next!

So, this is all assuming that by releasing the TC from flywheel, I'll gain at least the extra 1/2" somehow, that is needed to get the tranny free and clear... not sure how that'll work, but onward...

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97 RAM2500 Cummins affair. Big longass lifted biodiesel thing. Too big. Too spendy - got rid of it. Sure could pull some weight though.

Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

On mine there were two bolts at each location, about 2" apart (I don't have a Metric brain). Have you seen those shirts with buttons in pairs? Sort of like that. You can break these loose by sliding your box end wrench up there and smacking the handle (in the lefty loosey direction) until it backs off. You'll need to rotate the engine until the next set of bolts shows up then repeat. IIRC, mine had 3 sets of bolts for a total of 6.

When all the bolts are out you can slide a thin pry bar (or a stout screwdriver) between the flexplate (the equivalent of a flywheel on an automatic) and the torque converter. The converter should slide back maybe 1/2" or a little less and then you should be able to spin the converter with your fingertips.

I'm not sure how M-Bs are balanced but it might be a good idea to mark the flexplate and the converter BEFORE you move it so you can put everything back in the same orientation. A simple paint mark will do nicely.

Dan

The prescribed way is to undo the six bolts that hold the TC to the flywheel, lock the TC in the transmission bell housing with the aid of the plastic bolt and remove the transmission. This will also prevent damage to the tabs of the oil pump and the TC shaft bearing.

The TC doesn't have to be put back in the same position of the flywheel, but it isn't harmful either.

I've had various torque converters get stuck in the crank pilot. When you remove the converter bolts, the converter should slide backwards about 3 / 16" using hand pressure.

If the converter pads are tight against the flexplate, give the converter a push rearward and see if it moves.

Also when reinstalling the trans, put a bit of grease in the pilot to prevent fretting and the eventual sticking.

If the snapped off bolt has any sort of shoulder and that could be what's holding the converter to the flex plate, grind the head off rather than drilling. Once the head comes off the bolt will unscrew by hand, if locktite is used heat the bolt to ~ 300* F to soften the bond.

Did what you all suggested and the thing just flew off - finally! Sheared bolt didn't hold. Got the new Tranny rolled up ready to lift in to place.

THANK YOU for the guidance thus far.

Phase 2...

(got photos in case useful for any other fool getting in to this, will upload in due course.)

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97 RAM2500 Cummins affair. Big longass lifted biodiesel thing. Too big. Too spendy - got rid of it. Sure could pull some weight though.