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  #16  
Old 10-19-2013, 11:34 PM
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Idea

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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
The bearing I stuffed in the Crank is Part# 115-980-01-15. a SKF bearing. the other # is 6202-2RSJ. 15 x 35 x 11 MM. It`s nothing MB specific, just a run of the mill bearing used in a lot of applications.

I have been searching on Google and looking in various Bearing supply places, there seems to be no bearing the size, 15 x 34 x 11mm.

Though a few minutes ago I did find this site that shows a 15 x 34 x 11 bearing for $1.50.

15x34 Bearing 15x34x11 Metal Bearing 6202ZZ

I rented the Pilot Bearing puller like Dan shows in an above post from Auto-Zone. Dan I don`t know how you got it in the hole of the bearing, but it is too large to fit in there. Even tried my spare FAG bearing in my hand, and a no go.
So back to AZ and see what else they have, with my spare bearing with me.

You guys are probably right, there is no way I could have pounded this bearing in a 34mm hole, but it is in there, and squeezed tight so the center will not turn and the Transmission Snout would not slip in until I Dremeled it out some.

Iam looking for a Bore Gauge so when it is out I can get the official inner measurements.

Charlie
Depending on how much material needs to be removed, this may work.

1-3/8" Brake Cylinder Hone

KD Tools Hone Brake Cylinder 13 16 to 2 3 4 3 Stones | eBay

KD Tools 2483 1 3 8" Brake Cylinder Flex Hone New | eBay

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  #17  
Old 10-20-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
The bearing I stuffed in the Crank is Part# 115-980-01-15. a SKF bearing. the other # is 6202-2RSJ. 15 x 35 x 11 MM. It`s nothing MB specific, just a run of the mill bearing used in a lot of applications.

I have been searching on Google and looking in various Bearing supply places, there seems to be no bearing the size, 15 x 34 x 11mm.

Though a few minutes ago I did find this site that shows a 15 x 34 x 11 bearing for $1.50.

15x34 Bearing 15x34x11 Metal Bearing 6202ZZ

I rented the Pilot Bearing puller like Dan shows in an above post from Auto-Zone. Dan I don`t know how you got it in the hole of the bearing, but it is too large to fit in there. Even tried my spare FAG bearing in my hand, and a no go.


Charlie
I had to SLIGHTLY grind the tips of the part that goes thru the hole, then angle the arms (remove the O-ring) so that the arms enter one at a time. It's a close fit. I'll send you mine if you pay postage both ways. Not something I use a lot!

Dan
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2013, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
At this point Iam only guessing the possibility of the crank being smaller, and as to why the Trans Snout will not fit into the Bearing.

Iam going to pull the bearing tomorrow soon as I find a bearing Puller. then see if I can measure the crank hole with the FW attached. NO way Iam pulling it off and have to buy another 12 FW bolts.

Looks a little tight getting my micrometer inside the FW to measure, we`ll see how it goes.

Iam not saying it is 34mm, just a guess right now, thinking how difficult it was to get that bearing in, when the other engine it almost fell in, in comparison.

Well it is just a silly little millimeter.


Charlie
Use a Telescopic/Snap Gauge a long with the Micrometer. Your Friend that made the other Pilot Bushing may have one in the size you need.

They also make them with longer handles.
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Pilot Bearing A Tight Fit, Possibly A 85 crank?-telescopic-gauge.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2014, 03:09 PM
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After procrastinating on this pilot bearing problem, I decided to load up the engine and take it down to my machinist buddy so we could measure the crank hole. He use a telescopic gauge, and came up with 1.371" or 34.78mm. Then measured the Pilot Bearing and came up with 1.378". so the Bearing is 7 thousands too large.

luckly I had a few bearings on hand, and by the third one we got it right.
First tried to use his lathe, but ended up using a belt Sander with a narrow belt. holding the bearing in his fingers and putting a slight drag on the outer part with his Thumbs, he finally got it.

First two that seemed to go in, but were just slightly too tight. pulling them out with a puller put enough stress on the inner ring, that they had a slight roughness to them.

Lots of grinding, measuring etc... to finally seem like he had it. Didn`t want to take off too much or too little.

Finally got the third one to fit just right. When he installed the Bearing, he drove it in as far as it would go. Didn`t think about it at first till I was installing the Disk and Pressure Plate when I got home.

Now back up about 3 yrs ago when I first swapped in the 4-spd, I put in the Pilot bearing more or less flush with the face of the Crank. Installed the Disk, PP and Alignment tool, it all went together and the transmission went right in.

Now with this one with the Pilot Bearing in as far as it will go, there is some up and down movement with the Alignment tool, and the Disk moves with it. There should not be any, or the transmission Splines will not line up with the Disk.

I had the trans on and off several times, moving the Disk so slightly, and with just 2 Bolts holding the PP on thinking if it was on just enough to hold the Disk, the Trans splines would move the Disk to line it up. Maybe with only the 2 bolts instead of the six, it wasn`t holding the PP close enough.

So finally added the 6 Bolts and finally got it lined up enough the Trans Splines felt like they were going it. Got the trans in up to about 1/4" from the Adaptor Plate. used the trans Bolts and pulled it in the rest of the way. Maybe not the most desirable way to do it, but it is on. Now need to remove trans and torque down the 6PP Bolts.

The slight up and down movement of the Alignment tool Iam thinking is because the BP is in too far, and not enough of the tool is buried into the bearing.
After sleeping on it last night, my thinking now is to see if I can pull the bearing out closer to the face of the Crank. And W/O damaging it. I do have 3 new bearing left to play with.


Hope I explained my actions and thoughts here and not being too long winded.
I tried not to leave any unanswered steps or to confuse the reader, except for the confused one here...me.

My original plan was to get Dan to measure the Crank Hole, and then buy the Bronze to make a Bushing.


Charlie

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Last edited by charmalu; 02-27-2014 at 03:24 PM.
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