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  #1  
Old 12-05-2013, 07:56 AM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
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Lightbulb The Legendary " Saab " Alternator Upgrade

been hearing about this for over ten years now, never have gotten a straight answer on it much past some part numbers.....well now i have one, "brand new" and it's sweet, the lights have never been brighter.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131061729708?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

the seller, Eagle Auto Electric, is a "real person", as in, this is a real reman business in california that takes pride in their work, this isnt sloppily thrown together by some mexican factory slaves LOL......it came all packed tightly, the paint still smelled fresh......he gets them and redoes them and includes even connectors for hooking it up, as one cuts and removes the plug, and runs an additional 4-guage wire to the positive post of the battery......my lights on the car have never been so bright, not so much as the slightest voltage drop even under full load everything turned on full blast......he even threw in a free pulley for me, as mine had a bunch of banged up fan fins from when the tensioner broke one time......

anyways, i am so stoked about my abundance of power onboard now, that i just had to share with you all.......these bolt on to pretty much any old Benz, and is a very good upgrade, i recommend everyone get one ASAP
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I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

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Last edited by BenzDieselTuner; 12-05-2013 at 08:36 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-05-2013, 08:33 AM
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Your link seems to be broken

-J
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2013, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Your link seems to be broken

-J
Try this one Mercedes Alternator Diesel 240D 300D 1974 77 78 79 80 81 82 High Amp Generator | eBay
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2013, 09:10 AM
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I did this upgrade last week. The alternator can be gotten from saab 9000's in the picnpul or you can buy a reman at your favorite parts place for $80 - $120 depending on your choice.

It's a Bosch AL129X. I used the one out of one of my many Saab 9000 parts cars littering the back field here.
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:38 PM
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Which harness does this hook up to? W123?
I think I'll need to do a complete rewire to upgrade the alternator in my 1972 220D. There's no way I can have everything running (heater, headlights, fog lamps, stereo) right now with the 35A stock unit. Even upgrading to the W123 55A unit would be great.

Phil Forrest
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:47 PM
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It doesn't hook directly to the W123 harness. Our harness has 3 spade connections, the AL129X only has two posts.

There are threads on how to, but basics: The thin (in my case blue) wire goes to the smaller post. Two new heavy gauge wires are made up and both go on the large post. You can choose to then run them to the stock junction box where battery and starter both have a lead, or you can run one to battery and one to starter directly.

Don't cut off the old plug, just put some nice electrical 'lube' on the contacts and tape it over, zip tie it out of the way for when you want to go back to stock....ya know for when these are worth a fortune .
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Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2021, 11:24 AM
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another bad link
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2021, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HughO View Post
another bad link
Well, it is to an eBay auction from EIGHT YEARS AGO. You didn't really think the item would still be there did you?
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Current stable:
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Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2021, 11:56 AM
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Post Eagle Electronics

In the end they weren't so hot anyway ~ when I went there in person they didn't have a working load tester so how could they claim 110 amperes output ? .

Just get the AL129X one and be sure it has a BOSCH or HELLA branded regulator, the other brands don't like to charge the full 14.7 VDC for some reason .
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2021, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Well, it is to an eBay auction from EIGHT YEARS AGO. You didn't really think the item would still be there did you?
I didn't notice that at first either. Good info, I'll shop for a reman someday. I did a Pick n Pull search - no Saab 9000s.
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2013, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Your link seems to be broken

-J

sorry, i never tested the link, i edited the original post, that link now works as well
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-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2013, 03:36 PM
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I might consider the 120A alternator if I needed to change mine alternator anyway, especially since cheaper than the $150 I paid in 2001 for a NAPA one. I like the stud outputs, which is more reliable than the spade connector on my 85 300D, plus no sense having 2 output spades & wires like the factory design. Otherwise, my battery recharges fine w/ the factory 65 A alternator, so I don't see the necessity.

The headlights should work fine off the battery alone. If too dim, there are probably issues with corroded connectors. I don't see a need to keep up with the glow-plugs while cranking. Indeed, that is silly. A larger alternator would just load the starter motor more while cranking, causing more draw from the battery. It isn't a "perpetual motion" machine. On the same thread, why run the alternator output to the starter? Indeed, it would be nice to disable the alternator while cranking, which I think some car systems do. If your present alternator keeps the battery charged, a bigger one would just risk smoking wires.
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2013, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
I might consider the 120A alternator if I needed to change mine alternator anyway, especially since cheaper than the $150 I paid in 2001 for a NAPA one. I like the stud outputs, which is more reliable than the spade connector on my 85 300D, plus no sense having 2 output spades & wires like the factory design. Otherwise, my battery recharges fine w/ the factory 65 A alternator, so I don't see the necessity.

The headlights should work fine off the battery alone. If too dim, there are probably issues with corroded connectors. I don't see a need to keep up with the glow-plugs while cranking. Indeed, that is silly. A larger alternator would just load the starter motor more while cranking, causing more draw from the battery. It isn't a "perpetual motion" machine. On the same thread, why run the alternator output to the starter? Indeed, it would be nice to disable the alternator while cranking, which I think some car systems do. If your present alternator keeps the battery charged, a bigger one would just risk smoking wires.
I simply followed the stock wiring, with heavier gauge wire. I don't know the 'why' of the original wiring scheme....that is, output to both starter and battery, but they flow to the same place anyway.
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  #14  
Old 12-06-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
I might consider the 120A alternator if I needed to change mine alternator anyway, especially since cheaper than the $150 I paid in 2001 for a NAPA one. I like the stud outputs, which is more reliable than the spade connector on my 85 300D, plus no sense having 2 output spades & wires like the factory design. Otherwise, my battery recharges fine w/ the factory 65 A alternator, so I don't see the necessity.

The headlights should work fine off the battery alone. If too dim, there are probably issues with corroded connectors. I don't see a need to keep up with the glow-plugs while cranking. Indeed, that is silly. A larger alternator would just load the starter motor more while cranking, causing more draw from the battery. It isn't a "perpetual motion" machine. On the same thread, why run the alternator output to the starter? Indeed, it would be nice to disable the alternator while cranking, which I think some car systems do. If your present alternator keeps the battery charged, a bigger one would just risk smoking wires.
I wasn't implying any kind of perpetual motion silliness. An alternator that will maintain charging voltage with the glow plugs on is quite nice when your system is set up for after-glow.
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  #15  
Old 12-07-2013, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
I might consider the 120A alternator if I needed to change mine alternator anyway, especially since cheaper than the $150 I paid in 2001 for a NAPA one. I like the stud outputs, which is more reliable than the spade connector on my 85 300D, plus no sense having 2 output spades & wires like the factory design. Otherwise, my battery recharges fine w/ the factory 65 A alternator, so I don't see the necessity.

The headlights should work fine off the battery alone. If too dim, there are probably issues with corroded connectors. I don't see a need to keep up with the glow-plugs while cranking. Indeed, that is silly. A larger alternator would just load the starter motor more while cranking, causing more draw from the battery. It isn't a "perpetual motion" machine. On the same thread, why run the alternator output to the starter? Indeed, it would be nice to disable the alternator while cranking, which I think some car systems do. If your present alternator keeps the battery charged, a bigger one would just risk smoking wires.
You not thinking what the main reason for an upgrade like the is. Modern accessories. Even the addition of running/fog lights would be to much for the stock alt. Add a modern stereo, modern amps, start charging your Ipad phone, GPS, run your upgraded A/C etc...
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