The key is to just get the car safely up with the rear wheels suspended so you can turn everything. Just start turning and shaking things and you'll probably find the culprit.

Everything on the 123 car is pretty easy to replace. I put a front flex disk on my 124 car a few weeks ago and had to drop the exhaust and stage a few other battles to complete the job. One of the real beauties IMHO about the 123 is its simplicity of maintenance and repair.

Good luck,

My 123 300D has an odd problem, Its got a manual transmission, You cant shift into 1st gear, if you are going faster than abou 2 miles an hour! 1st gear works normally otherwise! Is this normal?

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

My fathers Subaru does the same thing. I don't think its *normal* but as long as there are no other problems, I wouldn't worry too much.

__________________
Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)

Alastair,

Come on, put it in gear, not the transmission, but your thinker.

When you are shifting from one gear to another (1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc.) the input shaft AND the output shaft are spinning and can be synchronized without too much stress. With ONLY the output shaft spinning due to motion while the input shaft is almost stopped because of low speed before the clutch is released it will be difficult to put in gear.

With anything mechanical such difficulty is sending you a message. If it is difficult to make move, you are probably overstressing the machinery to make it move.

It is important to learn this. It is how you learn to have a FEEL for the machinery.

If you want this manual transmission to last for a long time, don't move the lever into first gear unless you are at a dead stop or very near it.

Good luck,

In addition to the always excellent advice that Mr. Bible so graciously provides-(just look at how many posts he has put out!!)

You are trying to overcome the 1st gear synchros! They are doing their job of preventing gear clash!

If you have ever driven a Toyota gear box, and use this as your standard for what a gear box should feel like...Forget it!
You won't find too many boxes as good as a Toyota, so don't think that all transmissions should shift like a Toyota.

I call it, "mechanical sympathy".

When someone yanks up on the parking brake lever without pushing the button first, and the ratchet pawls go clack, clack, clack...That person does not have "mechanical sympathy".

The same thinking applies to shifting a gearbox. If you listen, you can actually hear the synchros working before the gear lever slots home. First gear, the actual gear, is fairly large and heavy, and takes a hefty synchro to stop it. You need to have some sympathy for it and wait for walking speed before slotting it home.

The other way, is double clutching. ...and I am too tired to go into it, as it takes some 'splain-in.

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

As to headlights;

The 7 inch lamp is a very efficient lamp design! Round lights are the most perfect for focusing light (look at a spotlight, or flashlight) and are preferred by BMW. They have never offered anything but round lights because they know they are the best.

But you might prefer the look that came with the Euro model...

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"