I am in the process of getting the OM601 ready to go back into my 1984 190d 2.2 non-turbo. You may recall my engine rebuild fiasco with a local machine shop. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/342623-need-good-machine-shop-d-fw-texas.html I believe that I have the timing done and am going to begin putting everything back together and preparing for the IP timing. I have purchased the IP locking tool and the wrench to turn the ip to its proper location for timing.

Please take a look at the photos that I have posted and double check my work thus far as far as the timing goes. I purchased the OM601 FSM and have been following it to a T. I still need to install the timing cover before timing the IP, but I want to make sure that everything is correct before potentially destroying gaskets on pulling everything back apart. If you see anything that looks awry, please let me know. Any help/feedback is greatly appreciated.

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What wrench do you need to turn the IP and why do you need to turn the IP?

Sixto
87 300D

It is a splined wrench part number: 601 589 00 08 00. Here is a picture: I need to make sure that it is lined up as close as possible so that I get as near optimal performance as possible.

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If the Fuel Injection Pump is out of the Engine install the Timing/Locking Pin and rotate the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft unit the Timing/Locking Pin lockes the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft in place.

Rotate your Engine Crank Shaft in the direction of rotation past TDC on the Compression Stroke to what ever the degrees (about 14-15 ATDC; you will need to look up the spec for your Engine ) are ATDC (After Top Dead Center past TDC on the Compression Stroke) and install the Fuel Injection Pump and bolt it down and remove the Timing/Locking Pin.
All of the above should be detailed in your Manual.

Before you start rotating the Engine; even by hand you ought to Oil up the Chains and Chain Guide and the Camshaft Lobes. If not then before you assemble the Covers over those items.
You especially don't want a Dry Chain running over the Shoe on the Timing Chain Tensioner/Guide Rail.

The Engine looks very dry; you use any sort of Assembly Lube on the Engine and Camshaft Bearings? At least pre-lube with Oil.

Some of the methods of pumping Oil into the Engine to pre-lube may not gett Oil to the Timing and Oil Pump Chains.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It does not take a lot of force to turn the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft. If your Pump has the Splined end on the Camshaft you can often turn it by Hand if you use somthing grabby like a Leather or Rubber Glove (not the thin latex gloves) or turn it by using the Nut on the end or You can wrap a lot of Masking or Electrical Tap on the Jaws of a Channel Locks (so you don't mare the splines).

There is a groove on both ends of the Timing/Locking Pin Plunger. That groove needs to be oriented Horizontal/Parallel to the length of the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft be fore you start to turn the Fuel Injection Pump.
I used the Timing Locking Pin in the Below Thread the method is the same but you need to know which degrees ATDC for your specific Engine:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=297458

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Gus Pfister himself (Bay Area 02 | Features | Gus Pfister Interview and Story) told me to wrap a rag around the IP shaft and use pliers to turn the shaft.

But again, why didn't MB make the base RIV position TDC???

Sixto
87 300D

I rotate them with pliers and a rag.

Your engine is so clean and pretty!

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The manual probably talks of a special tool to hold the IP timer sprocket in place with the IP off so the cam turns with the crank. Kinda odd to see the corner of it in the second picture if the IP is off. I'd just as soon install the IP regardless of timing, install the chain tensioner (mind the priming procedure), rotate the crank to 14-15* ATDC, remove the IP, fit the locking tool, install the IP. Diesel911 might know the details but I don't think a half degree in IP timing will make a substantial difference in engine economy or performance. Besides, tools aren't available to mortals to do a better job.

Hmm... I get the sense you're doing things a little backwards. I'd have installed the front cover before installing the head to use a dial gauge to confirm the crank pulley gradients and the [IMO idiotically] adjustable pointer coincide with #1 TDC. At this stage the front cover has to go on so you can set the crank to 14-15* ATDC. I hope you didn't loosen or remove the pointer in quest for hermetic cleanliness.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks for all of your responses. I do have the locking tool, I also purchased a socket that I thought would fit the IP similar to the one pictured but it is too small. I will just turn it by hand. As far as the timing cover going on before the head, I didn't have a chance to do so. The shop was supposed to do a more complete assembly, but failed to do so. I will have to be careful not to pinch the head gasket as I line up the front cover. Also the FSM says to set the engine at 15 degrees before installing the pump.

The engine also appears to have some assembly lube on certain areas, but not in the areas that you mention. I will be sure to add additional lube to the areas that you mentioned. Thanks.

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I'll bet the FSM means set the engine to 15* ATDC *before* removing the IP and leaving it at 15* ATDC when installing the IP. I hope turning the crank without something to keep tension on the chain in place of the IP doesn't mean another visit to the machine shop for a few new valves. There is an assembly tool that holds the IP timer sprocket in place when the IP is off but the tool attaches to the front cover. Come to think of it, how did you get the chain in place without tension in the IP timer sprocket?

Sixto
87 300D

By any chance do you have a part number handy for that tool? I will see if I have a photo to show you how I received the engine back from the machine shop. Actually, I think that there are some in my original post thread.

I think that you are right about the 15 degrees. The timing device is currently just sitting on the chain sprockets. They used baling wire to hold it in place when I went to pick it up. I may have to try and hunt down that tool that you mention.

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No matter what you do when the Engine is assembled turn the Crank Shaft a bunch of revolutions by hand to see if any hangs up. That way if for some reason the Valve timing ended up off and a Valve makes contact with a Piston you will do no damage and it can be corrected.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I will be sure to do that. I do not want to tear anything up and have to have more machine work done.

If I am unable to locate the tool that you mention, how do you recommend I move forward?

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IIRC engines with the original vacuum pump tend to have the assembly basket still in place so you might already have it -



Umm... thanks to MB's crazy price increases, the assembly basket list price is $250 this year

Again, though, the tool attaches to the front cover. No front cover, no way to use the tool.

Slap the IP in place, prime and install the chain tensioner, confirm cam timing, set the crank to 15* ATDC, remove the IP, install the IP locking tool, install the IP. The first installation of the IP is simply to hold the IP timer sprocket. You'll have to get creative holding the IP to the block without the front cover. Using this picture as a reference...



Use spacers to simulate the front cover to use the IP bolts that go into the holes at the 4-, 7- and 11 o'clock positions relative to the IP timer sprocket. The retaining nuts are square jobs that fit into slots in the IP flange. You won't need spacers if the bolts are threaded far enough up the shank an there's nothing in their way on the far end. Your call whether to fit the tail end bracket if a 601 has such a bracket.

Sixto
87 300D

I have got the front cover on and am cleaning up the IP now. I am going to fit everything up and just put the IP on and set the engine to the 15* then remove the IP and set it properly. Thanks for all of the good advice.

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