You didn't bench test the starter before installing it? All the major parts stores have starter/alternator test benches they will test for free. It could be wiring problems to the starter. Did you clean and check them? Don't forget the ground strap on the bell housing drivers side.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Bad battery or bad connection by the sound of it, just a "click", then nothing..

Also, an FYI. I used a car starting charger to jump a 300 I had years ago, and burned out all 5 glow plugs. On boost, big chargers can put out over 16 volts. Some wrecker mounted starting units can put out as much as 18 volts. Thats how they get the amps. While most electrics can take short durations of that, glow plugs dont like it at all.

A guy I knew who worked at the MB dealer, told me of a MB that came in not running after being boosted. Every black box/ECU in the car was blown, at a cost of over $4000. Not under warrantee either.

Mine puts out 13 volts. Just tested the GPR and glow plugs. All fine.

(sarcastic comment follows) Of course I didn't bench test the starter! That would have made entirely too much sense. (end of sarcastic comment) What I don't get is that the car started fine, then the starter was slow, then I replaced it with an allegedly good one, then NOTHING.

I'll try to bypass the NSS and check the ground strap on the bell housing. I thought that was on the passenger side on the 300SD? I'll have to look for it.

Anybody got any other ideas?

bump

Have you managed to get the new starter to work yet?

(Not sure what other ideas you are looking for)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Id be taking a voltmeter and checking all starter control wiring for continuity, looking for loose or corroded wiring that might have been broken or about to break earlier on, just to eliminate the wiring from the equation. Mostly id be starting by looking for the correct voltage at the starter in crank mode, then working my way back if I don't find it. The way you describe the way the thing got slow, then nothing could be wiring that was close to breaking, then broke or is too corroded to let the right voltage through

Id also verify that the engine does indeed turn over properly by turning it over by hand up front. Just to be sure nothing is jamming it up somhow. Easy fast check, again just to eliminate what it cannot be.

If all is good, start pulling the startcer back out. Then you can bench test or take apart and se if its rusted up or worn out

__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Well I bought a new starter for $80 at O'Reilly. Bosch reman. That seemed to do the trick! Although it took FOREVER to get it to finally start. My suspicion is that there is somehow air entering the fuel system. I did a valve adjustment yesterday (the lobes of the cam are supposed to be at 1 o'clock for both I and E valves, right?!) and it runs amazingly well, but has a lopey idle at times.

Virtually non-existent blow-by :-)

Not bad for a car that sat for 10 years.

This car will most likely be for sale in the coming months, if you or someone you know is interested. I'll make details available later and obviously post it in the PP classifieds.

Thanks!!!

Now to figure out why the wipers don't work...

THIS CAR NOW SOLD.