New to me $1 1982 300SD - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

indybenz · #1 01-28-2014, 06:38 PM

Hey folks. I normally post about my 83 300D, but now I've got a car I picked up from a generous man for $1, Goldie! She sat for 10 years, has 225k on the clock, and starts on the first try (except when it's cold). Truth be told, it actually has cost me over $500 with B2 piston/registration/taxes/oil/filter/etc., but it's a decent car for the price ;-)

Among other issues, the one I'm most concerned with is a transmission fluid leak. After a good bit of research, I'm 90% sure it's the front seal/s. I've watched Ken Bergsma's video series on it and it seems to fit the description. I've tried to eliminate any other options and had no luck (i.e.: metal dipstick tube leaking).

I have a feeling I'll have to take out the transmission to really find out. A sad day indeed. I am moving to another country across the pond in July and don't need this car to be perfect. I'd really rather not pull the transmission if at all possible.

But should I have to do that, I have most of the tools. I have access to a shop with a 2 post and a 4 post lift. I do not have a transmission jack, but I do have a 1500lb 'underhoist support' that might help.

I already replaced the B2 piston/filter/pan gasket/fluid and that wasn't really too bad of a job. Well, the piston *was* in about 40 pieces, so I knew for sure that it needed replaced ;-) I'm not afraid to work on the tranny, I just don't really want to spend the time. Is that so wrong?!

Finally, parting out the car is not an option. That was part of the hand shake with the PO.

So, thoughts? Drive it as it is, leaving little puddles where I park, and checking the fluid level, until the tranny somehow fails? At the moment, it usually shifts very nicely. It does 'flare' occasionally if you are very slowly easing into the throttle. But it's 100% driveable whereas before it was not driveable as it wouldn't go into gear ;-)

Thanks in advance. JD

Stretch · #2 01-29-2014, 03:25 AM

The best thing for the transmission is to fix it - you know that! However with the other stuff going on in July I guess you'll be selling the car then anyway? In which case you're better off fixing it aren't you 'cos it'll be hard to sell it with a broken transmission.

whunter · #3 01-29-2014, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybenz

Hey folks. I normally post about my 83 300D, but now I've got a car I picked up from a generous man for $1, Goldie! She sat for 10 years, has 225k on the clock, and starts on the first try (except when it's cold). Truth be told, it actually has cost me over $500 with B2 piston/registration/taxes/oil/filter/etc., but it's a decent car for the price ;-)

Among other issues, the one I'm most concerned with is a transmission fluid leak. After a good bit of research, I'm 90% sure it's the front seal/s. I've watched Ken Bergsma's video series on it and it seems to fit the description. I've tried to eliminate any other options and had no luck (i.e.: metal dipstick tube leaking).

I have a feeling I'll have to take out the transmission to really find out. A sad day indeed. I am moving to another country across the pond in July and don't need this car to be perfect. I'd really rather not pull the transmission if at all possible.

But should I have to do that, I have most of the tools. I have access to a shop with a 2 post and a 4 post lift. I do not have a transmission jack, but I do have a 1500lb 'underhoist support' that might help.

I already replaced the B2 piston/filter/pan gasket/fluid and that wasn't really too bad of a job. Well, the piston *was* in about 40 pieces, so I knew for sure that it needed replaced ;-) I'm not afraid to work on the tranny, I just don't really want to spend the time. Is that so wrong?!

Finally, parting out the car is not an option. That was part of the hand shake with the PO.

So, thoughts? Drive it as it is, leaving little puddles where I park, and checking the fluid level, until the tranny somehow fails? At the moment, it usually shifts very nicely. It does 'flare' occasionally if you are very slowly easing into the throttle. But it's 100% driveable whereas before it was not driveable as it wouldn't go into gear ;-)

Thanks in advance. JD

If the leak is less than one quart per week, I suggest you simply monitor it.

I have two good used 300SD transmissions here in Detroit if you need one.

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indybenz · #4 01-29-2014, 09:33 AM

Thanks whunter! It is indeed much less than a quart. It is a small amount from what I can tell from what's on the ground. Now if it leaks while driving that's another story. From what I've read though, it's more likely to leak while 'in situ' if it is the front seal/s as the torque converter 'hangs' down and the seal it not as tight. Something like that.

Mr Stretch! Hello from across the pond! I hear you. I was thinking I could 'gift' the car to someone else that would either 1) fix it or 2) drive it til it breaks and then it would be their problem not mine :-) Of course I'd let them know ahead of time the issues.

But the latest and greatest is that as of last night, after spending several hours tinkering with Goldie, now she won't start!!! I'll start another thread and link to this one.

In the meantime, here's a picture of the leak. I removed the 'crossmember' to capture the image.

The 'top' of the picture is toward the rear of the car.

indybenz · #5 01-29-2014, 10:07 AM

I guess I can keep this thread going with yet another issue: a no start.

Here is a video of Goldie running. I'm relatively sure she needs valves adjusted, after sitting for 10+ years, and perhaps the timing chain adjusted/replaced.

And here what she sounds like this morning. 13v from a professional battery pack, so that's not the issue. Tested gpr last night using the test from dieselgiant and all tested out perfectly. I checked and replaced bad fuses and tested continuity between leads. I did the rudimentary test on the neutral safety switch by cranking and moving the shifter and it passed that test as well. Dunno folks.

In the 'warm', she starts fantastically, even after having sit for 10 years!!!

Stretch · #6 01-29-2014, 10:18 AM

There's another current thread saying that just measuring the resistance of a glow plug isn't enough - apparently they sometimes measure good but don't work. So I guess visual inspection is best - but do not touch!

indybenz · #7 01-29-2014, 10:22 AM

Would it not start without glow plugs working even if it were in an ambient temperature of 50-55 degrees (inside the shop where it sits)?

Stretch · #8 01-29-2014, 10:26 AM

Well here's the thread for the glow plugs

Glow plug extreme result

The thing is with a worn engine you are more likely to need the extra warmth to get it to go. The compression of air makes a whole load of heat - but the relatively cold engine block sucks it away like a sponge. If you can't compress air like you should then it'll struggle.

I'm not saying definitely glow plugs there's other possibilities like air in fuel system, slow running starter, grotty engine oil slowing things down etc etc etc or combinations of many things.

It is running now though isn't it?

whunter · #9 01-29-2014, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybenz

Thanks whunter! It is indeed much less than a quart. It is a small amount from what I can tell from what's on the ground. Now if it leaks while driving that's another story. From what I've read though, it's more likely to leak while 'in situ' if it is the front seal/s as the torque converter 'hangs' down and the seal it not as tight. Something like that.

you have a PM (my number) call me asap.

Roy

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indybenz · #10 01-29-2014, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Well here's the thread for the glow plugs

Glow plug extreme result

The thing is with a worn engine you are more likely to need the extra warmth to get it to go. The compression of air makes a whole load of heat - but the relatively cold engine block sucks it away like a sponge. If you can't compress air like you should then it'll struggle.

I'm not saying definitely glow plugs there's other possibilities like air in fuel system, slow running starter, grotty engine oil slowing things down etc etc etc or combinations of many things.

It is running now though isn't it?

Engine oil is new 15w40 Rotella T, shouldn't be any air in the fuel system at least not that i know about, starter could be slow but it started fine even last Sunday (with a jump) when it was sub-zero cold out (literally). I just find it odd that it was doing fine until I 'improved' some things and now it won't start.

Another note: last night I noticed the oil return line between air cleaner box (stock) and oil pan was disconnected at the top. I reconnected it. Could it have been clogged or something? Would this cause it to not start? Odd.

Stretch · #11 01-29-2014, 10:45 AM

I think you are best off speaking with Roy - may be he thinks your flex plate is disconnecting itself from your torque converter or something like that! Ring the man!

whunter · #12 01-29-2014, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybenz

Engine oil is new 15w40 Rotella T, shouldn't be any air in the fuel system at least not that i know about, starter could be slow but it started fine even last Sunday (with a jump) when it was sub-zero cold out (literally). I just find it odd that it was doing fine until I 'improved' some things and now it won't start.

Another note: last night I noticed the oil return line between air cleaner box (stock) and oil pan was disconnected at the top. I reconnected it. Could it have been clogged or something? Would this cause it to not start? Odd.

15w40 is thick for current temperature in your area = it will reduce crank speed by roughly 1/3...

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whunter · #13 01-29-2014, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I think you are best off speaking with Roy - may be he thinks your flex plate is disconnecting itself from your torque converter or something like that! Ring the man!

We will talk later in the day, because he is in a poor reception area now.

We are only 290.37 miles 4 hrs 53 mins / 5 hrs 5 mins based on current traffic from each other.

So it may be possible for me to work on this vehicle.

I noted several points to discuss in the video.

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indybenz · #14 01-29-2014, 11:45 AM

I will do an inspection tomorrow. I'm not driving the car as my DD is still my 1983 300D, which refuses to quit despite the polar vortexification of the midwest! 190k miles and it starts pretty much no matter what, termperature be damned. Yesterday it started after sitting out all day in sub zero temps. I just wish it weren't rusted out.

whunter · #15 01-29-2014, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybenz

I will do an inspection tomorrow. I'm not driving the car as my DD is still my 1983 300D, which refuses to quit despite the polar vortexification of the Midwest! 190k miles and it starts pretty much no matter what, temperature be damned. Yesterday it started after sitting out all day in sub zero temps. I just wish it weren't rusted out.

I can usually repair the 300D rust for years more service, send me some pictures when you can..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/86054-who-has-most-rust-still-drives.html

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