Hi,

I've been working on my front seal and got the old one out today. Fate is smiling on me as the sealing ring slips out into my fingers. I pulled the old seal with the hook on a pair of brake drum spring pliers.

All. Went well till I unpacked my Corteco OEM seal from the box. I noticed casually that the little shoulder only went about half way around the seal. I thought hmm, wonder if there is an up or down. Then I slipped it in. I noticed it was seated crooked. One half sunk all the way in flush with the outer surface and the other half stopped on the partial shoulder. The old one has the shoulder going 360 degrees around the outer rim.

I looked in disbelief. This couldn't be intentional! The seal is cocked on the crank shaft and won't seal right. The more I look at it the more I realized it is some kind of molding flaw. I'd take it out but I need to keep the dust out till the replacement arrives.

I'm so bummed. Well at least things are going ok. It could be worse. Balancer came out nicely, spacer ring came out, pulley bolts came out, crank bolt came out with air wrench...time to take a break for a few days.

So much for spending the extra money for OEM.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Uh oh. I just read in the FSM that there is an oil seal for upper pans that are milled and upper pans that are not? My seal isn't defective, it looks like what they call the half flanged seal. It comes up as the part for my car Corteco 011 997 22 47OE

But I'm not sure if my pan is milled or not. All I know is my old seal had a flange going all the way around.

Here is what I have:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/ykobayashi-albums-oil-seal-type-picture4701-dsc04814.jpg

This is the seal with the half flange:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/ykobayashi-albums-oil-seal-type-picture4702-dsc04813.jpg

Do I just have the wrong application?

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

This tool must be used to correctly install the seal.

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing Front Crankshaft Seal with "Special Tool"


.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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Just finished my drink. Got the tool.

But...what does the seating of the seal on the ring have to do with the flange on the outer edge of the seal? On your wiki entry you have the seal that I think I need, one that has a flange that goes all around the seal's outer edge.

Somehow I was sold one that has a flange on half of the outer edge. Funny, the photo of the Corteco looks like this. The Elring looks like it has the flange like a brim on a tophat all the way around the outer edge of the seal.

Still confused. Maybe I should have just bought the Elring.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Ok, I got it done. Here is the skinny on what happened to me. The seal was not defective. It was just the wrong one. When you order the seal for the 82 300SD they give you this Corteco OEM part number:

011-997-22-47

You get a seal with a half flange around the top...looks like a baseball visor on one edge. I needed the one with the brim all the way around like a top hat. I checked the FSM and there are two different lower oil pans. One with a milled lip and one without. The one with the milled lip can take a half flanged or full flanged seal.

The milling is kind of a counter bore on the bottom oil pan that holds the seal from falling into the engine. My car didn't have that and needs a flange on the bottom side too.

The good news is I got the Elring seal and it has the flange all the way around. It looks like a nice seal. While I was in there I put in new tranny cooler hoses, upper and lower radiator hoses, radiator reservoir hose, all new Conti belts. I'm pretty happy and the car is quieter now.

Thanks again for all the support. I was so close to just putting the seal on the shelf for "next time". The pulley bolts came off with your tips of crushing a 12mm socket over the stripped hex bolt. The seal spacer ring just slipped off into my fingers...luck.

Oh yeah, and I heated my balancer on a portable butane stove on the driveway to 240F. I wrapped it in a couple of sheets of aluminum foil and put the burner on high. It took about five minutes to hit the appropriate temperature as checked with my cheapo non contact Harbor Freight thermometer...that seems to blank out at 210 F. Hah! Used Nomex gloves to pick it up.

Balancer slipped right on but was off a bit when it tightened up about ten seconds after setting it on. I drifted it around with a hardwood dowel and a mallet to get it lined up. Piece of cake. With all the tips here I can fool myself into thinking I'm good at this!

Now if I can just work up the courage to pound out my clunky ball joints.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles