Good to hear you have it sorted out.

The 1986-87 USA model years have a different control panel / pushbutton unit vs 1988-up due to a change in the sensor/switch used for the AC compressor safety shutoff. 86-87 models use a 3-pin temperature switch that triggers at certain coolant temperatures, to turn off the AC compressor if the engine gets too hot. This varies by engine. 1988-up changed to a 2-pin sensor which tells the control panel the exact engine temp, and the control panel then decides what to do with the AC compressor. The 1988-up control panel should work in a 1986-87 vehicle, but the high-temp safety function would be disabled as the 88-up panel won't have a temperature signal available.

BTW, the system functional description is available in the owner's manual and the factory manual, climate control section. This explains how each mode works, what temp air comes out in various settings, etc. EC = Economy which simply means "AC compressor off".

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

95 E300D, Planning on tackling a few more pre failure items on my car, including replacing/rebuilding the vacuum pods.

I've read through this thread a couple of times and really appreciate the comments.

I have a few questions.

Does anyone know of instructions or videos that specifically are for a 94 or 95 E300D?

I'm planning to go to Plano TX soon to check on parts availability. Since the short rubber connectors are low in price is it best to replace them?

With the dash off and the instrument panel out, what are some other suggested PM things that could be done. I think I've read that the solder points on the back of the instrument panel should be reheated.

Since silicone is touted to provide a very long lasting protective coating to rubber, what's your thoughts on coating the new diaphragms with silicone oil or a light coating of silicone grease? It seems it would reduce friction a bit also.

Does any of the 'water proofing sprays' seal possible small vacuum leaks? I'm thinking of trying one of the old time sprays that spray a waxy coating for electrical connections.

I'd especially like to thank the one's that have taken the time to create videos, websites, how to's, etc. I'm watching a youtube one now titled:

W124 dash removal and automatic climate control vacuum actuator pod replacement

Video is easy to folow so far and expect it to help with my dash removal.

Most of the instructions for earlier cars also apply to the 94-95 E300 diesel. One difference may be that your car has a passenger airbag, early cars do not. The bracket are different vs the glovebox.

The rubber connectors are cheap and it would not hurt to replace them, especially the ones inaccessible with the dash in place.

If you treat the rubber diaphragms, make sure it is a product SPECIFICALLY designed for rubber. Otherwise, don't apply anything at all. There's usually no issue with leaks if the pods are good and vac fittings are tight.

Plan on 10-12 hours working slowly if you've never done this before. Next time around will be half that, if you ever do it again.

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

The part #'s for my 95 E300D W124 I believe are:

124 800 29 75 left side recirculate/fresh air flap
haven't found one yet

124 800 30 75 riight side r/f air flap
On order from Park Place Mercedes

124 800 03 75 diverter flap
On order from Park Place Mercedes

124 800 02 75 center vent flap
found on Pelican parts

124 800 26 75 defroster pod
found at ******** cheaper than P parts
a u t o h a u s
124 800 09 75 lower footwell
so far only found used

201-805-01-03 Connect vacuum Tube to pod I believe hese are short right
angle ones,
One parts website diagram shows there are (9) of these
used for vac
pods 500E site say's 10-12 of them

201 805 01 22 'Y' connector 500E site says 3 of these I'll try to order these

The following 500E tutorial has pictures and good commentary:
5 0 0 E b o a r d
https://www.*********.co/forums/threads/how-to-replacing-w124-climate-control-vacuum-pods.1349/

I've failed to locate two vacuum pods.

Does anyone know if Performance Analysis kits will fit the 94/95 part number

124 800 29 75

right side fresh air flap vac pod? Also can the innards of part #
124 800 30 75 left side be taken out and work in my
old part 124 800 29 75?

The other pod is the rectangular lower footwell pod
124 800 09 75 that I haven't been able to locate. Fits 87-95

When I tried calling Performance Analysis this morning, 5/4/2021, the auto answer message said they were temporarily closed while the owner George Murphy is recovering from heart surgery. Hopefully the recovery will be quick and goes well.

The PA kits do not work properly with the dual-chamber pods, travel is limited and the flaps will not fully close. Click here for a recent post with more details.

Yes, the internals of #30 can be used to repair #29.

I would be surprised if Pelican can supply center pod #02, which has been NLA for years. The PA diaphragm (ACD 2010) will repair this pod correctly. If Pelican had one left, it was probably the last one anywhere. It's showing NLA on their site now (link).

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

thanks for the link explaining the problem with the 2020 kit.

I checked my order confirmation email from Pelican Parts for the 124 800 02 75 center vent, it does show it is on order and will ship 05/10 about. I won't be surprised if I get a NLA email soon.

I'll order a 2010 kit for that pod from Performance Analysis when they're taking orders again.

It's confusing trying to tie part #'s to positions and repair kits.

Does the 2010 kit work for any of the other pods?

Which pods innards are interchangeable?

The 2010 kits fully repair the center vent (#02) pod, if the housing is intact.

The dual-chamber pods have 2 diaphragms, and the 2010 kit will repair/replace ONE diaphragm only, the outer one. In my experience, almost all of the dual-chamber pod failures had this outer diaphragm failed, so the 2010 kits would fix those pods. However, some people have found both diaphragms failed, in which case the entire pod (or, complete internals) need replacement.

Internal components should be interchangeable if the pod size/diameters are identical. I believe all the dual-diaphragm pods are the same size, at least on the 124. Remember the rectangular/oval footwell pod almost never fails, and is accessible without pulling the dash, so you can skip that and maybe source a good used one in case it ever fails in the future. I've never seen, or even heard of, a late footwell pod failing.

GSXR, That's really good information.

If the Mercedes was a musical instrument, you'd probably be in the Berlin Philharmonic.