Cool, THNX DAve!

Perhaps this is the same thing that I had. Mine would make a very fast slapping noise, more like a rattle, it was so fast.

It turned out to be the vacuum unit behind the glove box that has been mentioned in this thread so many times.

Mine would rattle based on the position of the temp wheel, coldest be the problem.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

I have not tried that. I will set it to "EC" tonight and see if it slaps in the morning. Mine is just one big loud slap and it only happens once.

Thanks for getting back to me gxsr. As usual, you are wealth of information about these cars.

I think you must also be AMGDave from Benzworld, since I ended up at your site when I was looking at some things. I am still longing to get the big swaybars and I happened onto your post about your sportline bars being for sale. I'm still not ready to buy, however, since I have a number of "normal" maintenance issues to deal with. One of these days I am planning to jump in and upgrade to the sportline plus option.

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I just couldn't give up on my 1995 E320.

I think it might be like always going back to that same bad relationship with an ex girlfriend.
You feel you love them too much, or you are just too stupid to know any better.



Flickr slideshow of my 1995 E320
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24145497@N06/sets/72157616572140057/

Dave, thanks for all the help this has been a great post. Now, how much vac. should be supplied to the manifold? I get about 2in at idle and 3-4 at higher RPM's. I assume this is not enough. Where does the supply come from? I cannot find the vac line with the same color combination under the hood anywhere. Any pointers? I am fortunate in that only the number 3 line didn't hold vac.

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Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

You should see 20-25" of vacuum. The source is the vacuum pump on the front of the engine... a small hose comes up by the water neck, to a 4-way splitter. Two hoses go to the air filter area to feed the smog junk (you can disconnect and plug these to kill the EGR and ARV). The other two go towards the engine... one feeds the transmission shift circuit (feeds the vac control valve on the side of the injection pump), the other goes past the brake booster and into the passenger compartment to feed the climate control pods. If any of the 4 main lines has a massive leak, you'll get almost no vacuum to the other lines. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere, time to track it down and fix it. To test the pump, connect your gauge directly to the small output. The power brakes would be dead if you had no vacuum though. Here's a photo of the vacuum pump:

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

If the only failed pod is the #3 circuit, you are VERY lucky. That is the footwell pod, which can be replaced without pulling the dash. You'll need to remove the pushbutton unit to access this.

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Climate/83-620.pdf#page=1

Invaluable thread

Where is good place to get a CD of the shop manual? I tried the down load a couple of pages back but was ask for a password. I need to let a machanic friend see the dash removal vacuum pod replacement section if the leak check goes bad tomorrow.

Man the weather changed big time here and it is all I can do to walk from one end of the house to the other, or type here. I think I am signing off for now guys.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

The ACC manual is a separate manual in the paper version.

I don't know if it's included on the CDs.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

Well I should know in a couple hours if I need it or not. I haven't even checked the pods to see if they all work, I think it may have been subconscious fear of them not working.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

The ACC manual is included on the CD's. OldNavy, I sent you a PM. The "braingears" site doesn't work anymore, bummer. The skinnerbox.steaky.org site is also locked down.

Sorry to add to this old thread but I'm desperate. I have a 95' W124 wagon with a vacuum leak. I've located a Red/blue vacuum line in the engine compartment that leaks thanks to the Mity-vac. It branches off the left side of the yellow check valve. The green/yellow line goes in under the dash and feeds the top of the vacuum manifold but what does the red/blue line do? I can't see where it goes from above or under the car. When I plug the left side of my check valve (where the red/blue line goes) all of the vents and climate control work perfect. When I hook the red/blue back up I loose vacuum and I go into default mode with only defrost and side vents. Anybody got a clue??

Please see attached pic.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Well, first off it appears to be a gasser wagon, no? I don't believe there were any diesel wagons sold in the US in 95, right? You didn't specify the model which someone will always point out regardless!
But if the vac pods under the dash work with the nipple on the yellow checkvalve plugged, what DOESN'T work? Thats one way to think about it.

Its hard to tell anything in the way of color codes without the vac diagram for your particular car. Sometimes the same colors appear inside on another vac line.
There is a diesel engine vac diagram on the forum but it doesn't indicate the two checkvalves: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28733&d=1125785998
Everything on it is EGR and OM603 (diesel) engine related. Theres lots of threads talking about vac diagrams but none show anything substantial only talk about the tow web sites that showed them being shut down. Seems MB must have not liked their CD's being populated online?

I would tug on the line and follow it down somehow, its going somewhere! Only black lines are vent lines and they go into the other side of the firewall where the air is clean, not down somewhere in the engine compartment.
good luck!

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body. '87 300D w/ Sportline suspension. No more '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750, it was my annual driver to Texas and I sure don't miss it poor A/C heater system!

Yea its a gasser....1995 E320 Wagon. Tried tracing it but it disappears under the plastic drainage vents....no room for a hand or light. I think I'll take your advise and keep the left side of the check valve plugged and just drive it. When I first plugged it everthing appeared to work on the climate contral.....but maybe missed something.

Guess I can always contact MBUSA and see if I can get a Vacuum schematic for my year and model. Haven't had any luck online locating one.

Thanks again!

It goes along the back firewall in a black sleeve and then comes out on the opposite side under the battery. It then runs under the battery and disappears in the bottom corner (outer corner where engine wire harness connects)

Any ideas would be highly appreciated.