Smarting from trailing arm replacemnt charge - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

compu_85 · #16 05-06-2014, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Its not even that hard to replace a turbo....maybe a few hours work.

Ya I know, I've had mine off before. The bill ended up being almost twice what I was expecting

-J

t walgamuth · #17 05-06-2014, 05:49 PM

So I drove the 240 over to the glass company today to get a new windshield and rear glass gasket and found the car to wander and it sounds like the rr shock is loose on one end.

No wonder he didn't want me to test drive it.

TheDon · #18 05-06-2014, 05:52 PM

Broke a bolt and had to tap the sway bar links. I smell a scam. Those are replace only.

t walgamuth · #19 05-06-2014, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

Broke a bolt and had to tap the sway bar links. I smell a scam. Those are replace only.

They're a threaded bolt which has a ball for a head so if you break it off you'd have to drill it out and tap it clean.

Does the top of the rear shock have to be taken loose to replace the trailing arm?

JB3 · #20 05-06-2014, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

They're a threaded bolt which has a ball for a head so if you break it off you'd have to drill it out and tap it clean.

Does the top of the rear shock have to be taken loose to replace the trailing arm?

yeah, the bolt flange wont pass through the hole in the control arm. Shocks have to be removed or unbolted. Though it could probably just undo the top and drop the whole assembly, then remove at their leisure from the arm itself, id probably remove the whole shock to avoid damaging it

Edward Wyatt · #21 05-06-2014, 09:27 PM

There are always two sides to a story.

Charging a total of $400 to r&r a rear lower control arm including an alignment, shop supplies and tax is very reasonable. In this case the customer self diagnosed the issue and supplied the parts. So the shop lost out on parts profit and had to deal with a 30 year old car to boot.

It's a thirty year old car, is it reasonable to expect that by replacing a bent suspension part with a good used one and nothing else is going to eliminate all the wandering issues? On a high mileage old car like this, the front AND rear suspension likely has multiple issues causing the wandering. Not to mention, the condition of the tires is suspect due to abnormal wear cause by worn and damaged suspension parts.

The shop demanded payment first because that's the way business is done, asking for a test drive before making payment is unfair to the shop and is a real slippery slope.

If the op had taken the car to the shop with a specific complaint of wandering and pulling to one side and they then performed the full list of recommended repairs then there would be legitimate gripe. Something caused the control arm to bend, probably an impact with a curb. Likely there is other damage that the op isn't able to diagnose himself.

t walgamuth · #22 05-06-2014, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edward Wyatt

There are always two sides to a story.

Charging a total of $400 to r&r a rear lower control arm including an alignment, shop supplies and tax is very reasonable. In this case the customer self diagnosed the issue and supplied the parts. So the shop lost out on parts profit and had to deal with a 30 year old car to boot.

It's a thirty year old car, is it reasonable to expect that by replacing a bent suspension part with a good used one and nothing else is going to eliminate all the wandering issues? On a high mileage old car like this, the front AND rear suspension likely has multiple issues causing the wandering. Not to mention, the condition of the tires is suspect due to abnormal wear cause by worn and damaged suspension parts.

The shop demanded payment first because that's the way business is done, asking for a test drive before making payment is unfair to the shop and is a real slippery slope.

If the op had taken the car to the shop with a specific complaint of wandering and pulling to one side and they then performed the full list of recommended repairs then there would be legitimate gripe. Something caused the control arm to bend, probably an impact with a curb. Likely there is other damage that the op isn't able to diagnose himself.

You disagree? What a surprise. I specifically asked them to look at the front end for worn parts. they said it is fine. Damage that I cannot diagnose? Right. That is why I took it to them.

The steering box needs adjusting though and it sure sounds and feels like the rr shock is not attached on one end.

These are quality of service issues which I would not have had if I had taken it to my regular Indy for the repair work. I tried to save myself some shuffling of cars by having them do the repair work in addition to the alignment. I won't make that mistake again.

vstech · #23 05-07-2014, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

They're a threaded bolt which has a ball for a head so if you break it off you'd have to drill it out and tap it clean.

Does the top of the rear shock have to be taken loose to replace the trailing arm?

I have removed hundreds of trailing arms... I do not think the shock needs to be removed to get them out...

I swapped one in an afternoon due to a wheel bearing noise... never touched the shock upper mount...

t walgamuth · #24 05-07-2014, 10:38 AM

Thanks John!

That engine is running excellent! Powerful and smooth!

vstech · #25 05-07-2014, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Thanks John!

That engine is running excellent! Powerful and smooth!

I aims to please!

Jay took great care of that car, and I had ZERO doubts the motor would be perfect.

JB3 · #26 05-07-2014, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I have removed hundreds of trailing arms... I do not think the shock needs to be removed to get them out...

I swapped one in an afternoon due to a wheel bearing noise... never touched the shock upper mount...

does the shock lower mount pass through the trailing arm hole if you twist it?

t walgamuth · #27 05-09-2014, 06:47 AM

I talked to my favorite machinist about this shop and he said the owner has a drinking problem. He said that when his father ran the shop they did quality work and if there happened to be something wrong they fixed it. Looks like I'll have to find another alignment shop.

(My favorite machinist said he just had some trouble with the alignment/repair shop himself and will likely not be doing work with them in the future).

JB3 · #28 05-09-2014, 09:23 AM

sounds like a death rattle in the works for that shop as far as reliable return customers.

You know its bad when other businesses in the same general field start taking their business elsewhere as well.

Fortunately for the alignment shop, there is no shortage of one time customers out there, assuming he has a favorable location

Junkman · #29 05-09-2014, 09:44 AM

I always examine and test drive before paying - now. A local shop screwed rear main, clutch, trans, transfer case seals on the Cummins. Fortunately the owner has integrity if not competent employees.

I also make it clear that I "think" the problem is xxx but they are to make their own diagnosis and call me if they find something different.

Easy to say now. The lessons to arrive at that strategy were painful.

Another tangent is NEVER give a contractor or anyone in a construction related business an advance. Those that can't afford supplies are the most likely to underperforming on the work.

JB3 · #30 05-19-2014, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I have removed hundreds of trailing arms... I do not think the shock needs to be removed to get them out...

I swapped one in an afternoon due to a wheel bearing noise... never touched the shock upper mount...

ever since you said this i have been interested to see if i could do the same on my 123s. recently i was yet again doing rear shocks on the wifes car, and there is no way this is possible on either the wifes 85 wagon (standard shock conversion), or my 83 240. the base of the shock absolutely cannot pass through the control arm. certainly not while bolted up top.

this has me thinking that maybe there are different types of control arms for the 123, maybe one with a bigger hole?
chances are walgumuth has the same as i do, where to remove the control arm, you absolutely do have to un bolt the top of the shock, or remove it all together first.

what years did you do? im curious what other difference there might be