G'day Folks,

I've googled

I've FSM'd

I've lost my patience

I've buggered up the order of wiring of the back of the plug on my rear window heater switch - can anyone help?

'Ere's wot eye 'ave



1X red/brown wire
1X multi-coloured black yellow stripy thing with two wires joined to one joint
1X black wire
1X blue wire



Back of the plug looks like this



Two pins on the back of switch are marked with letters "A" and "E" - the other two have meaningless (well to me anyway) numbers on them so I've labeled them "Don't know1" and "Don't know2"

I hates electrickery I does

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Did you mean to post in DD? A 6000 rpm w201 diesel seems unlikely.


Just teasing. Sorry I cannot actually help with your "diesel".

__________________
1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

A- Blue
E- Black
31- Brown
16- BY/Yl/GN

A = aus or off (blue)
E = ein or on (black)
31 = ground (brown)
15 = power (yel/grn stripe)

Note the operating light is between E and 31 if you are trying to ohm out the switch.

Turning the switch "on" gets you continuity between 15 and E
Turning the switch "off" gets you continuity between 15 and A
There should be some high resistance (several tens of ohms likely) between E and 31 due to the bulb. If its an LED you will only read in one direction.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Thank you very much folks - I did find it in the FSM in the end.

Here's a link to the wiring diagrams

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/01002.pdf

And here's a screen shot showing the diagram



It is called the "defogger" in the FSM

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Well I often post here because of the helpful comments!

In development - in development...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

After a bit of fiddling I realised there's a clip at the back to be removed

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Is this a complete test to see if the switch is good?