The odometer reads about 230k I think. The car runs well enough but it was run on a fairly foul mix of WVO and WMO. I put about 2 gallons of #2 diesel in just to allow me to move it around. The car is in pretty rough shape but I did find a 5 1/2 light alloy rim in the trunk and it has Hella H4 headlights. The floors were badly rusted and someone riveted in what appears to be roofing material. Not a terrible option but I wouldn't want to be in a wreck in this car.

Somewhere in These.... there should be a pic of the chassis manual pages on springs...

PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum - Search Results

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Way back in the day you got new springs installed on Mercedes at 100k as part of their serious maintenance program at dealers.

Shocks and springs replaced if the originals are still present makes quite a differance. Normally Mercedes has ride heights you measure to determine the need. Carefull around the rear springs though as several other things can determine ride height back there as well.

Amen to all that.... I have changed them out on many old American cars... you can't believe the difference in feel and looks....and sometimes it makes alignment shops able to put the castor and camber back to original specs... also making a difference in feel.... the factory change out time is much shorter than most people suspect... what counts is not necessarily the number of miles ... but the time the springs are loaded...
thus... if a car is in long term storage up on jacks with the wheels off the ground.. the time period does not apply...
Of course the tires still are subject to Ozone deterioration....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I don't have the funds for replacement springs/diff mount etc.....So I go old school, I just knocking in 1x1 wood blocks in the bottom coil....wa la 3" of height gained

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Does anyone have any recommendations on brands for a new clutch? I have seen Sachs and thats about it. Is this a good brand?

They make good stuff. I've got a Valeo in my MINI and no complaints here

For those who have done the swap is it easier to remove the engine while you do the swap or should I leave the engine alone? I honestly don't have any reason to remove it from the red car but I am planning on pulling it from the parts car to either rebuild or sell as is. I have driven the parts car about 5 miles just to make sure the transmission is good to go and assess the health of the engine and it is way down on power but it does run very smooth at idle. I think 55mph is the top speed.

If it's been run on WVO that fuel system is probably a nightmare. Imagine the fuel filters?

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

The filters are very nasty looking. I was impressed/horrified at the fuel line that is wrapped around the heater hose

In my opinion this depends on whether you have a lift or not.

Working under a car on jack stands trying to fit a transmission is a pain in the arse (and the back and the neck and the elbows...). The chances of damaging something when fitting is greater than if the engine was out. If, however, you have a lift and a transmission jack the world is your oyster...

...by the way I think sachs + ZF + boge + lemforder are the same company so probably the best quality parts you can buy new

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Id pull the gearbox first then pull the motor. The 4 speed is so manageable that its not a big job. Top bolts accessible from the engine compartment, the rest of the bellhousing
Bolts are easily accessible from underneath.

Look at it this way, you are already down there to undo the driveshaft and one bellhousing bolt anyway to remove the ground strap plus the trans mount crossmember and shift linkage. Might as well get the rest of the bell bolts and yank the gearbox. Then later the motor can be pulled straight up and out with ease

Dont forget to grab all the bellhousing spring washers! ,if the donor car doesnt have them make sure to install them on the maroon 240

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Two things: First, I would not change springs ever unless I had a broken one. I've had several cars with over 300K on them and I prefer the look of a car with slightly saggy springs. It will have less air resistance hunkered down. If I had broken springs I'd prolly buy a used pair from a car with less miles.
Second: I'd not pull the motor if only changing the tranny. Its a lot simpler to just do the tranny. Yes, I've r and r one myself without a lift. These trannys are not all that heavy. You can use a floor jack if needed to assist....not that hard.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

As far as the clutch goes, I think the LuK clutch is supposed to be a good, economical option.

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

On the parts car, I undo the motor mounts, undo the flex disc, undo the clutch hose (or cut the hose if the fittings are stuck, the hose is still available and if you soak the rusty fittings in penetrating oil and get a good bite with flare nut wrenches, you can usually get the fittings moving for the re-installation). Undo fuel lines, coolant lines, etc.

Then remove the radiator, and the AC condenser.

Cut the core support but the headlights on either side of where the radiator was, you're scrapping the shell, why preserve metal that's about to get smashed in a crusher.

Grab the motor with a hoist, lift a little, and pull straight out.

Get under the car, undo the rear flex disc, and the carrier, and pull the whole driveshaft out.

When I do manual swaps and I have the parts car I just swap in the whole driveshaft.

On the car you are keeping, its easy to drop a 240D transmission with the motor still in the car. I've done it more than once just using floor jacks and jack stands. Lift would make it much easier, but not necessary by any stretch of the imagination.

Reassembly is easier than the dis-assembly as the manual is much smaller and lighter.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i