Soon you will be cruising!

Dont forget the not in park safety bypass. If your pedal cluster came with a neutral safety switch, you can direct wire

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Some more progress today...

I still need to run the plumbing for the clutch as well as remove the automatic cooler lines and install the speedo cable from the parts car. If I was really motivated I could have it running again by this evening but I'm not

Does anyone have a picture of the shifter linkages? I took a picture but it was lost when I upgraded my phone a few months ago.





I found a centering tool at rock auto for $1.95 which fit perfectly.

"I found a centering tool at rock auto for $1.95 which fit perfectly."

would you happen to have a brand and part number for the centering tool?

Looks like the sex industry is diversifying into other special tools!

(Sorry it has been a lonely December so far)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

And I just choked on my coffee

Last night I finished running the lines from the clutch master cylinder into the brake master cylinder and down to where the line on the transmission will go and I swapped over the speedo cable since it is different between the auto and manual.

If I ever do another swap like this I need to label all bolts. I dumped everything into a box and figuring out which bolt goes where is taking the majority of my time at this point. Its been about 4 months since I took the parts car apart so my memory is a little fuzzy.

Finished it all up this afternoon. If I had all the parts on hand I could have done the swap in a weekend. I only drove the car around the neighborhood since I needed to cook dinner for the family but I am very pleased with the results.

You will now never get in another mercedes without visions of manual swaps dancing through you head. The wagon is next i wager.

Almost zero difference in difficulty with that chassis for the same swap

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

congratulations on the successful swap. that sure is a good feeling when you start her up, push in the clutch and she goes into gear, and each shift is smooth, and everything works. She should be a totally different car by the way she feels and drives.

I hope that rubber shift boot is better than the one I ordered. When cold, it was like a piece of Tupper Ware. Dang thing was stiff, made shifting harder and the thing would not stay under the edge of the shroud.

I found a black leather shift boot from a 95 Saab Convertible. (actually my wife found it, yes she goes to PNP with me....sometimes ) There is a plastic piece that snaps into the Saab Shroud. used that piece and modified the 240D plastic one used on the 80 240. Used some black shoe polish and it looks pretty good.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Oh believe me I really want to put a 5 speed in the wagon but the Mrs. can't drive a manual and she told me I'm not allowed to do that to "her wagon."

Bleeding the clutch was very simple using the reverse method of attaching a line to the right front caliper. I also took the time to change out the brake fluid since it needed to be done and I didn't want to have old fluid going thru new clutch parts.

The shifter boot is a new one from that place in AZ and it is a cheap Chinese part which I'm not thrilled about but its still better than the one that came from the parts car.

Kelsey/Hayes CT4004 is what is on the sales order. It does say it is a toolmaker closeout so they might not have it anymore. I found it in their catalog under an 83 240D since that is what the transmission is out of. I have seen some reports of success using a tool from a mid 90's S-10 pickup as well.

There are loads of leather versions out there for the same price as the plastic fantastic (I got one for my W201)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I drove the car about 10 miles last night and it really has some power. I still need to finish removing the old transmission cooler lines and replace the exhaust downpipe with my spare. I did notice a rumbling from the right rear in turns so I may have some other issues going on with the rear suspension. I still need to replace the subframe bushings which is ironically what started this thread...

I finally was able to take the car on a nice long drive today and it is simply amazing. I finally got the brakes sorted with a new master cylinder and booster from the parts car and the car stops as it should and once I realized I left the o-ring off it even turns off like it should I don't know why but cruising at 70 seems a bit quieter now with the manual. I need to catch up on some deferred maintenance on the 400E but I hope to start on the rear suspension sometime in the next two months. I want to have it ready to go for the Deutsche Classic in July.

Going to revive this thread since it originally began as a suspension rebuild thread and I'm finally feeling motivated to get cracking at it.

For those who have changed W123 subframe bushings is it easier to drop the whole subframe? I'm also planning on replacing differential mounts, CV axles and wheel bearings at the same time.

I'm sure it is much easier to remove the sub frame and tackle the old bushings off the car especially if they are rusted / stuck in there. I needed to get a crows foot on mine with a hammer!

(Wanna link?)

Also if you're doing the other stuff I'd definitely remove the sub frame and trailing arms in one. You might also want to add trailing arm bushings to your list.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If you have a link handy then yes please.

I'm planning on getting those bushings too. Oddly those are available in Lemfoerder elsewhere on the interwebz but I cant find the rest of the parts in anything aside from Meyle and I'm not feeling lucky.