i know i REALLY need a right front ball joint-it squaks when the front end goes up and down, and squeaks when i turn the wheel. How long can i coax out of this thing? I would really like the car to make it up to tallahasee and back, and it absolutely HAS TO get me to and from school/work, so how long can i coax out of it? would one month be pushing things??
thanks
Ryan

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83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

One of the classic symptoms of really, really bad ball joints is an oscillating shimmy under certain conditions - such as going around a turn. They are really worn at that point.

If you are just getting noise, there's still useful life left.

Ken300D

I have never heard a ball joint make any noise... that is more commonly a symptom of A arm bushings , control strut bushings, in other words... rubber things.... lots of things move under there in addition to the ball joint... If you really think it is the ball joint you should have it INSPECTED BY A GOOD MECHANIC...because if it is so close to failure that IT is making the noise you are in danger..... you can measure the play in a ball joint with a dial indicator mounted properly...If the ball joint pops out,,,, then your wheel lays down on the road...a really ugly site and very dangerous......Greg

I had a mild ball joint problem in my 190D in 1994. Over a month, the noise got a little worse. One day, in a parking garage in Chicago, the ball joint cut loose and I ended up with a wheel attached only to the shock and an arm driven into the ground via the spring. Thankfully, I was only going 5 mph when it happened. My suggestion is to replace them as soon as practicable.

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Jovan

'84 (11/83) 190D 2.2 5-Speed; Silver/Blue; Motor No. 00354, 402k mi (340+kmi mine)

'89 Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe; Black/Black; 53kmi
'05 BMW 530i 6-Speed; 302kmi
'19 Range Rover; 30kmi

At the moment, I have around half an inch vertical lift in my drivers side bottom suspension ball joint, Is this a record!! I know Im on Borrowed Time!! I gotta change them soon!
I have a new pair, but they are just the ball and socket assembly, How do you fit them into the arms?, Can it be done by driving out the old one with a hammer and replacing it with a new one in a similar way?
Any help appreciated!!:p

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

You can press them out or hammer them out, they are scrap anyway. You will need a special "tool" to press them in. I don't think you have much choice on this. On this side of the pond you can rent the tool. Another option would be to take them out and to an independent MB shop and have them change them out for you. Over here it runs about $90 for the pair to be changed.

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Jim

Hello, I would replace them ASAP simply because you know that you are going to have to eventually, so why not maximize the benefit and safety advantages of the new one? Also, whenever dealing with stearing or brakes, never go to the point where soemthing is questionable. If there is a question about the reliability or safety of a part in these two systems, then there is no question - repair it. That is my philospphy anyway, even though I have spent a lot of potentially unjustified money on perhaps unnecessary repairs, I know that it's safe for my passengers, the othewr people on the road that I drive around, and myself. But, if you are a student, then this is perhaps a good time to hit your parents up and tell them that you simply must get these repairs. They will see it as you being responsible and will fork the bucks over to get it done. Good luck, Adam Bush