Well....during my oil filter housing gasket replacement, I confirmed that the water pump needed changing. The front end was already lifted and I expected an easy process. It was until the bolt at 1:00 broke almost as soon as I turned the socket.

No problem. I'll just pull the base that the pump mounts on. All bolts loosened easily - except the one at 6:00. I think it would loosen except that I can't get a good bite on it with a wrench and there isn't enough room for evn the smallest socket.

I really don't want to pull the crank pulley as that has always turned into a production.

I expected the pump to come off because the offending bolt isn't threaded into the pump. Apparently rust is holding it and my BFH hasn't loosened it.

I suppose that pulling the radiator is next but I think the trans lines may be a challenge to loosen.

I'll go eat lunch & relax a minute. I don't want to get aggravated and make an error.

Anyone go a pic of the front so I can look closer at the piece the pmp mounts to?

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Some people use thin walled or ground down ring spanners on those bolts

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Can't see the picture ..
but perhaps you can grind the bolt off flush...
and then center punch it..
and use a left handed set of drill bits to gradually increase the size of the hole...
typically as you get near the threads the pressure is released and it comes out... due to the fact that you are using left hand drilling....
Left hand bits are not easy to find locally .... and cost more than regular bits... but compared to having to take out the radiator or other stuff.. which does involve risks in themselves.... it may be worth it..... I have never had a left hand bit fail to take out a bolt.....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

The pump bolt is below the surface of the pump. I'll go look at the piece that broke to see how square it is. The hole of the old pump will likely help but I may need to pull the radiator and move the condenser.

I'll see what the stores have. I need to go buy new bolts anyway.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Sometimes there are no short cuts...
I am sure when you put it all back together...
you will use a proper tap and clean out those bolt holes...
and use either a thread locker... which does a pretty good job of protecting the threads from corrosion... OR anti seize compound.... and NEW bolts... grade 8 .... no use ever having these problems at the SAME place as this time...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Harbor Freight is the closest pace to get drill bits. I'll go tomorrow. Yes, I'll use new bolts and anti seize in cleaned holes. Thank for the reminder. It looks like today will be spent getting ready for tomorrow.

It seems that lately none of my projects have gone without incident. I'm thinking of unloading and keeping 1 house, 1 old car & the sail boat.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Most of us have had decades of ' incidents'.... this is partly due to choosing to work on old cars.... at least with regards to old bolts breaking off due to corrosion...
but that ignores the incidents which happen with new cars due to all sorts of cost cutting and poor engineering designs....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html