Any progress?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

not yet. been tied up.

Plan today is to jack up the hubs and put in the nuts for the shocks, hopefuly that will help, then jackup and manhandle the diff into place.

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72 250 M130 W114

I've been through this before on the W115/114 and it can be tough even with a perfect subframe. One car I worked on had an accident damaged subframe with a replacement trailing arm and the differential holes were compressed and very tight. The differential had to be pried out.

When the car is on jack stands and the differential is removed the springs push the rear of the subframe toward the trunk floor. If you lower the car to the ground without the differential (don't it will damage the subframe bushings) the rear of the subframe will move toward the ground quite a bit. This seems counter intuitive but that's what happens. Try jacking the trailing arms until the subframe assumes the normal position. Be careful as this tends to lift the car off the jack stands.

If you're trying to install the differential with the rear mount attached to the differential cover (don't it's much harder) it will be impossible without jacking the arms. It can be done with the cover on and the axles in place but it's awkward.

The holes are precision made and very tight. With the differential and subframe out of the car it's still a bit difficult. You really need to bring it up straight. Tying to get one stud in first doesn't work and pushing hard on the diff just pushes the subframe to the trunk floor.

Once you jack the trailing arms you can put a block between the subframe and the trunk floor to help keep it in position and give you something to push against.

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1969 220D 5 Speed (OM616)
1983 240D 4 Speed
1985 300D Auto 376K
1985 300D Auto 275K

There is a reason for that.... and it is also why they should not be enlarged....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I hope it is working out for you - you must be getting close to having the vehicle towed away by the local authorities by now.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Hey Stretch,

I'm down to the wire. I have until monday. I have a SLAP tear and it's difficult to use my left arm. The good news is I do see light at the end of the tunnel.

Last night I was able to bring up the rear shocks, and attach all the hardware. With the help of my son and some neighborhood kids, we managed to jakc up the rear end and fit the flex disk (1 bolt) to the diff. Tonight I'm hoping to complete the rear end.

Alignment doesn't look like it's going to be too bad this time.

Thanks for checking in with me and I'll keep you posted.

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72 250 M130 W114

I replaced my differential and it was a PITA. I had my car on a lift and I had the differential on a high end trans lift which could manipulate the differential in any direction. Can you get a jack under the differetial ?

Yes I can.

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72 250 M130 W114

Alright guys. Just had to share my success, and share my knowledge.

First off the easiest way to get the diff off is the jack it up to about the point it would normally ride, support it and then lower it.

TO install it, was a family affair. We had to place a long 2X4 under the diff and jack and support the subframe. My daughter jacked it until the first stud was just touching the subframe, my son used the 2X4 get the second stud to touch, and I grasped and shook the differential until it dropped in the subframe

I hope this information saves countless hours I spend jacking and lowering the differential to get the differential out and back in.

BIG thanks to Stretch and everyone else that walked me through this and kept me sane.

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72 250 M130 W114

I'm glad it didn't get towed.

Park it somewhere else quick.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Already taken care of. Thanks!

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72 250 M130 W114