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  #1  
Old 10-05-2014, 11:52 AM
vstech's Avatar
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My slow to start 87 190D 5speed first cold morning start...

Ok. I've been slack doing maintenance on her since I acquired the car...

I think 3 gps are burned out, the glow light stays on for several minutes, and randomly turns on during the drive.

If I wait a full 45 seconds before starting the car, it catches ok, but nowhere nearly as quick as my turbo cars.

I'd like it if an explanation of the light in the 87 glow system could be described.

I know I need to pull the plugs, or at least ohm them out... It's on my REALLLLLLLLY LONG LIST...

Thanks everybody.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2014, 02:06 PM
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From my understanding:
87 2.5 turbo got the afterglow relay.

The relay looks at #1 plug's resistance and if it's wonky the glow plug light will come on and stay on AFTER starting to notify you that there is an issue. The light won't come on at all if you have no power to the relay (80 amp fuse).

There's more to it than that though. I just don't know much more at the moment.
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  #3  
Old 10-05-2014, 02:26 PM
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You have bad glow plugs, simple as that. The usual symptom is that the light doesn't come on when you turn the key, but comes on after you've been driving awhile. Yours is a little odd, but still consistent with bad plugs. On the 2.5 Turbo, it's all but impossible to do the glow plugs without removing the intake manifold...I'm sure others will describe some weird feat of mechanical legerdemain, but removing the manifold is the way I do it.
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  #4  
Old 10-05-2014, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
The relay looks at #1 plug's resistance and if it's wonky the glow plug light will come on and stay on AFTER starting to notify you that there is an issue. .
Not exactly. The current flowing through the #1 plug is compared to the total current flowing through 2-5. If the ratio isn't 1:4, then the indicator light is turned off during the preglow cycle, but will come on later.

The result is very wonky, because the way that current is measured is with two coils on either side of a magnetic switch. One coil has 4 times the number of windings on the other, and is counterwound. These coils supply power to the plugs. When ratio of the currents is exactly 1:4, the magnetic fields created by current flowing through the coils are equal and opposite, and the magnetic switch isn't activated. So odd situations can occur when more than one plug is bad, or when the resistances aren't all in spec. My policy is to replace all the plugs whenever the lights go nuts.
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2014, 02:44 PM
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Here's the FSM chapter containing the operation and testing

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/60010.pdf
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2014, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Here's the FSM chapter containing the operation and testing

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/60010.pdf
My iPad gives me the site maintenance message with that link...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2014, 11:26 PM
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Stretch's link worked for me on a PC using Firefox. Surprisingly, I normally cannot use Firefox reliably to access the startekinfo FSM .pdfs. I typically have to use Chrome, which is not my normal browser. Anyway, my point of all this is to say that you probably need to try on a pc or with a different browser.
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  #8  
Old 10-06-2014, 08:54 AM
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Indeed - I get straight to it with that link too.

If it still doesn't work try going to the start page

www.startekinfo.com

Then pick MB workshop resources

Then CD/DVD

Then find the W201 FSM

Then OM601 section

Then Engine electrical
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 10-11-2014, 02:00 AM
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Did you check the tire pressure?
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  #10  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:50 AM
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Out of curiosity, how do you think tire pressure is related to hard cold starts?
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  #11  
Old 10-11-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsain86 View Post
Did you check the tire pressure?
Heh, the web is tricky with posts going In The wrong place isn't it...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2014, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
Not exactly. The current flowing through the #1 plug is compared to the total current flowing through 2-5. If the ratio isn't 1:4, then the indicator light is turned off during the preglow cycle, but will come on later.

The result is very wonky, because the way that current is measured is with two coils on either side of a magnetic switch. One coil has 4 times the number of windings on the other, and is counterwound. These coils supply power to the plugs. When ratio of the currents is exactly 1:4, the magnetic fields created by current flowing through the coils are equal and opposite, and the magnetic switch isn't activated. So odd situations can occur when more than one plug is bad, or when the resistances aren't all in spec. My policy is to replace all the plugs whenever the lights go nuts.
Mr. MxFrank has it right. It is a current balance relay. There are cases where you can lose more than one plug but the relay will not catch it.

Best thing to do here is go ahead and do a full plug replacement since you don't know the history. Time to bite the bullet and pull the manifold. Yes someone will chime in and say you don't need to do that, but on a 60x you pretty much have to, unless you like having to contort yourself to get around all the obstructions. And unless you happen to have the perfect length tools to get in there, and be able to rotate them through a useful fraction of the circle, without hitting anything down there.

You can of course try the simple ohm test from the connector. But the only thing I trust in that regard is if I get a high reading then it has definitely failed. Low resistance won't tell you anything. The element could be shorted halfway along the length, which would pass the ohms test, but won't get hot where it counts, at the tip.

You can pull them and do the jumper cable and vice trick, but you've already got them out by that point, so I would go ahead and put in new ones on principle. Unless you just wanted to confirm that glow plugs was the problem, and not something more serious like low compression, the vice trick is a waste of time in my book.
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  #13  
Old 10-11-2014, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
Not exactly. The current flowing through the #1 plug is compared to the total current flowing through 2-5. If the ratio isn't 1:4, then the indicator light is turned off during the preglow cycle, but will come on later.

The result is very wonky, because the way that current is measured is with two coils on either side of a magnetic switch. One coil has 4 times the number of windings on the other, and is counterwound. These coils supply power to the plugs. When ratio of the currents is exactly 1:4, the magnetic fields created by current flowing through the coils are equal and opposite, and the magnetic switch isn't activated. So odd situations can occur when more than one plug is bad, or when the resistances aren't all in spec. My policy is to replace all the plugs whenever the lights go nuts.
I knew it! It looks at current. That makes much more sense now that I think about it.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png
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  #14  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
I knew it! It looks at current. That makes much more sense now that I think about it.
If it's any consolation, measuring resistance or current get you to the same place, thanks to Ohm's law. It would have been simpler to test resistance, but this way the relay can cost three times as much.

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