Hi all,

After doing some inspection I have found that my driveshaft center bearing mount is shot! The rubber is almost completely gone and I can move the driveshaft about 1/4 inch or more by hand in any direction (most likely the cause of my vibration/rumble feeling under load in 2nd and 3rd gear). Needless to say I am going to be taking out the driveshaft and replacing the mount and both flex discs as well.

Here is my question. Has anyone actually bought and used the 41 mm and 46 mm wrenches to separate the driveshaft halves?

I plan to take the driveshaft out as a whole piece by disconnecting and removing the flex discs. Now if I get it out as a whole piece I figure I can use an adjustable pipe wrench (or two) on the nuts to separate the shaft halves while it is on the bench. Once I put it back in the car will there be enough room to use a pipe wrench again to tighten the nuts and connect the two halves of the shaft, or will it require an open ended wrench to be used?

Thanks for any help or insight,

Glenn

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

I had to remove my driveshaft a number of times to repair a somewhat unique, prior repair. I was able to get a spanner in there. The thing I recall is that once you "broke" it loose, you could spin it by hand. I think I ended up removing it at least one time as one piece and at least another time as 2 seperate pieces. Make sure you mark the halves so that they go together like they did from the factory. Because my front piece (small piece) was totally different, i just randomly put it in, and it has worked fine.

I think I used a pipe wrench, no big deal.

Get a good look at things under there. I think you can lower the subframe that the diff is on, making it a much easier job.

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82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

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have an accident

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a cell phone.

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I have had good luck using a large monkey wrench or adjustable to take apart the two driveshaft halves.

I use a large crescent wrench and a 46mm crow's foot. I'm sure you know about the recommendation to roll the car back and forth a few times after final re-assembly but before tightening the slip joint. Using the crow's foot I can actually get in there to tighten the slip joint without raising the car.

I use a chain wrench on the shaft and large water pump pliers on the nut.
Also have had a helper turn the wheel to spin the shaft while I held the nut, went real fast.
As suggested earlier drop the dif and sub frame so it hangs on the emergency cables or rests on a floor jack. Makes the job real easy.

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I bought the spanners - I figured I would create less damage with something that was adjustable.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I removed the drive shaft from my parts car in one piece and then separated the splines on the workbench. I was not able to remove it until I had the engine and transmission out first since I didn't have the wrench to be able to compress the shaft.

You cannot do that. The reason is there is a about 1.5 inch long Pin extending from Each Yoke that goes into Bushings that are on each of the Drive Shaft. You need to loosen the Collar Nut so that; that section can be collasped in order to clear at least one of the Pins.
See post #4 for a Pic of that Pin
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/359922-stuck-w123-driveshaft.html

To loosen the Collar Nut I used a Chain type Pipe Wrench. I cannot remember specifically what I used on the 41mm area but there is more room there to get something on it. A Big Crescent type Wrench might fit.

Also after you re-install he Drive Shaft the Collar Nut should only be kind of hand tight. Then you are supposed to put the Car on the Ground on all 4 Wheels and push the Car Back and forth. That is to center the Drive Shaft before you tighten the Collar Nut.

I had trouble tightening the Collar Nut with the Wheels on the Ground as I barely fit under the Car enough to reach it with a Wrench.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel