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#1
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Trying to Decide
FRAM CH2930 at $11 plus $5 in shipping or Baldwin P102 at $16.30, but have to buy three to get free shipping.
With the latter, can oil changes be extended to 10,000 mile interval? That then could help in the cost difference. Thank you so very much for the help!
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#2
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For the Mercedes! You never want to go that far on the oil. The filter doesn't contribute much to oil life. I have the same om617 engine and get STP filters at a local AutoZone and even Wallmart. Don't go 10K, maybe 5. Even with synthetic, these motors are tough on oil and the oil gets dirty pretty quick. Don't use FRAM, not even on your lawn mower.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
#3
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I would only use a Mann or STP filter.
Dkr. |
#4
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No.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#5
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I only use Mann. 9 bucks and it comes with a crush washer and o-ring.
Agreed, even with synthetic oil the soot loading is what makes oil "bad" in these engines. That happens 3-5k miles no matter what oil is in it. Dino is good for 3k. If you want a better oil and don't mind spending more, synthetic IS better but it still goes bad at 4 or 5k at the MOST! There is no extending OCIs safely in these motors, sorry.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#6
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Hastings LF380 is the same as the Baldwin Filter an Granger Sells them. Also on internet sources the Hastings LF380 is cheaper. Also Hastings and Baldwin are acutally the same company.
The last STP Filter I saw was made in India and appeard to be the same Oil Filter as the Purolator one that was also made in India that was selling at the same time. The Central Tube in the top portion of the Filter is not sealed on either end it sits metal to metal. Both the STP Filter had like a Rubber Stamp mark on the Filter Made in India but in different places on the Filter. Both had the Red Paper with holes on the full flow section of the Filter and both had the same thin wire Handle at the top of the Filter. Unless of course they have changed suppliers.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Quote:
The German filters, Baldwin and Purflux are the best filters. Fram is junk.
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#8
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the made in turkey Fram is the best filter you can buy with ease... baldwin/hastings is the best filter you can buy period... none will get the 61x motors oil change interval above 7500 miles safely.
normal fram filters are junk, but the made in turkey fram 2930 filter is a quality spun cord bypass, not cotton gin bug and dirt junk in a basket... if it were me, and those were the choices, I'd go with the baldwin 3 pack, and be done. I'd only get the fram if they were local. PepBoys stocks them.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#9
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[QUOTE=vstech;3399699]the made in turkey Fram is the best filter you can buy with ease... baldwin/hastings is the best filter you can buy period... none will get the 61x motors oil change interval above 7500 miles safely.
normal fram filters are junk, but the made in turkey fram 2930 filter is a quality spun cord bypass, not cotton gin bug and dirt junk in a basket... if it were me, and those were the choices, I'd go with the baldwin 3 pack, and be done. I'd only get the fram if they were local. PepBoys stocks them.[/QUOTE] This was over about 5 Years ago in the various Oil Filter threads it was said some of the Fram CH2930 Filters came from Turkey but there was also the same Filter made in Mexico that did not have the same internal construction. Meaning the buyer needs to read the Box and or look on the Filter itself to see where it is made.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Quote:
Somewhere I got that idea of 10,000... Guess since I lost the note of when I did the oil change, better to be safe and just change it. Now I have a moleskine in the door pocket. Got all the big trips, major repairs, and notes in it. Quote:
So thankful for y'alls help! I am at a low in live and nice to be reminded there are nice people out there.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#11
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I know about soot, thus why me and the P.O. had a spat because he insisted using SM oil was fine in a CM engine. I did basically a flush and drained all the oil, even in the cooler. I run synthetics partly because of the O.C.I., but mostly because of the wear prevention properties, engine heat/cooling, and cold starts (including cold engine starts especially, when bearings are lacking in oil).
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#12
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I run synthetic because it makes winter starting easy.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#13
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Ewww! I was talking to a guy who was using just regular Pennzoil Ultra in his new Jetta TDI. I told him he should switch to something Commercial rated right away. He said "Nobody told me it needed special oil." I thought it would be a common-sense train of thought that if the engine burns diesel you might want to double check if you can use just any bottle of oil off the shelf. That goes for double since it's a VW with all their crazy specs.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#14
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It isn't commercial, but compression. The SM stands for spark motor and CM stands for compression motor, which was part of my argument for different oil. I would suggest pointing that out in the future, Heaven forbid you come across it again. Yep, have heard something about them having special specifications. Kind of glad I didn't get a TDi after all.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#15
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Quote:
Here is James Dean's posted 617 UOA with 7.4k miles on Dino. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/316346-420sel-300sd-oil-analysis-report-thoughts.html Some past discussion on extended OCI. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/333781-dump-rotella-t6-use-delvac.html
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
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