There are actually three fasteners (a combo of nuts and bolts) on the alternator that need to be loosened to remove it. The adjustment bracket comes out with the alternator, it seems. See this picture for location of the three bolts/nuts.



And see the second page of this thread for some pictures:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/285723-alternator-replacement-w123-2.html

Regarding BOTH brake lights being on, see this post from a previous thread:

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Sweet, thanks for the diagram. I had 1 and 2 but not 3.

As for the lights, I had read that post. I'm hoping replacing the alt/VR (whichever may be bad, or both) will solve the light issues.

Greg

Bolt #3 may be a trick to get out.

On my '82 300D, I think, that bolt would not come all the way out, it hit a turbo oil line, or something.

I eventually removed the bracket (part #116) bolted to the engine. When I reassembled, I put the bolt in from the front and doubled nutted it.

Bolt #2 has a spacer in the middle of the adjust bracket, a trick to get it lined back up.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Thanks very much for the diagram, that helped.

Got the Alternator out- it does indeed help when you know which bolts!

Here is what I found when I removed the Voltage Regulator:

(Sorry for the potato quality pictures, my dslr motherboard just died)






So this is my first voltage regulator I've inspected but I'm fairly certain that one is bad...

So I'm going to *assume* the alternator is actually fine. That the VR brushes are toast and a replacement VR would likely solve the issues.

However, I'm slightly torn... for $50ish I can get a new VR for this old tired ALT or for about $120 it seems like I could get a much higher amp alternator w/ a VR (that will maybe work). This is a budget build/repair at the moment as I have other projects.

Those with experience with these cars, may I ask what you would recommend? Are the extra amps worth it?

After reading 20 pages of this thread regarding replacing alternators: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/93569-alternator-115-amp-bosch-al129x-works-123s-20.html

I've decided to spend the extra coin and replace the alt and vr in one move, upgrade the wiring along the way to 4 awg and probably copper terminals - whatever the local store has.

Since this car will be used in the winter I figure it's step towards keeping the battery in optimal condition.

My hope is that replacing all this will solve my interior warning lights being on, but at the very least it will solve the battery charging issue.

Oh and I found Winterforce tires for $41 a pop! What a deal!
Will be going with those over the Goodrich since the price is unbeatable.

I regret, the wiring of this alternator has me concerned. I have looked at it since I posted and I have lot of concerns about how to properly wire this thing in.

This post has a basic description of what should be done:

From (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/347231-legendary-saab-alternator-upgrade.html)

I haven't done this or looked at it to extensively but that's the gist of it- mostly just follow the old wiring with new thicker wires.

My new alternator might take a week to get here, but I'd be happy to take pictures when I make the swap. Next weekend would likely be the earliest that will happen.

Napa doesn't have any compatible ones nearby and all the other chains near to me want lots of $$$ so I think I'm going to order on fleaBay. Other 300 owners have been going through the seller: eagleautoelectric with good luck. Cheaper than Napa and free shipping.

In other updates... trying to clean a bit at a time. Vac'd the drivers side, shampoo'd the drivers carpets and gave everything within reach a once over cleaning. Fixed a rear reverse light that was intermittently going out.

Updated 12/8/14
Parts:

Bosch 115 AMP Alternator - Arrived
Stock turbodiesel badge (currently has a biodiesel badge) - Arrived
Replacement wipers all around - Arrived
Spool of 4 AWG cable for alternator and any grounds that need replacing - Arrived
Some sweet license plate frames - will unveil later
Idle Damper bolt - Arrived
Front passenger caliper - Arrived
Front drivers caliper - Arrived
Rear passenger caliper - Arrived
Rear drivers caliper - Arrived
Brake hoses all around - Arrived
Bosch Brake Pads - all four corners - Arrived
Brake rotors - all four corners - Arrived
Brakes wear sensors
5 Firestone Winterforce tires 195/70/14 - Arrived. Installed.

Not looking forward to doing brakes in the cold! I should have moved the 300TD into the garage... and left the s2000 outside. But I didn't.

New tires should be going on today, picking up tomorrow.

I don't know why I didn't think about connecting it directly to the battery; I was concerned about running a new line all the way to the fuseblock, which would be ideal, and also a royal pain in the ass. Thanks for the link.

As for the alternator, I have one I got from a local yard, $65 bucks with core! It's cleaned up well.

Hey Hey

I'm rebuilding a w123 wagon myself right now.. here is the leading info on the SLS

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/271570-self-leveling-system-how-works-troubleshooting-system.html

Pretty awesome thread! Also I just bought some of the Hydraulic fluid for my wagon. NAPA can get it... If you give them the info for the fluid shown in the above thread they can order the equivalent... some stuff in a grey bottle from Germany...

Have fun with your wagon! She sure is pretty! I think you should put it away and keep it as a summer driver and buy a different car for a winter beater tho!! For Real!

Do you have a thread for you rebuild? I'll check it out.

Thanks for the SLS link as well, I'll give that a read through. I work from home so I am only out for an occasional errand during the week and then during the weekends. In reality it won't see too much of winter, it just needs to be capable of it.


I finished shampooing the drivers side carpets today and got started on the brake job as well. Top most bolt on the fronts are giving me trouble, the lower came off fine. The rears came off with no trouble as well.

The rear calipers are factory Mercedes- probably original. The seals on them disinterested on touch, so I'll be replacing them along with the brake line hoses. The fronts are both Bendix brand calipers. One of the front calipers seems to be in OK order, but the other needs replacing as well. So I'll just replace all four along with all four brake hose lines. Was hoping to avoid caliper replacement but it's for the best.

New rotors, pads, hoses and calipers should bring the braking back to near stock and should be a more enjoyable experience now as well as safer.

Some exciting stuff!

Once over on the drivers carpets:


Yup!

Started on the brakes today and began with flushing most of the old fluid out. I will continue to flush it with each caliper I put on and then flush it again a final time for bleeding. Some progress was made... I completed the first rear caliper/rotor/hose/pads easily enough. Then I went to do the second one and - oops. Second rotor was wrong. I hadn't checked them all. Oh well. New one should be in Friday.

Moving on to the fronts... I was stuck with the top bolts on both calipers but after two days of PB Blastering they came off tonight. However, I need to replace one of the bolts due to some rounding.

That's as far as I got when I became distracted... I found quite a bit of water in the cabin unfortunately. We just had some serious 24 hour rain and there is a decent leak somewhere. Water in the drivers front, passenger front and some in the passenger rear. I suspect it's from one of the air intakes on the hood, but impossible to say for sure right now. Bit of a bummer, going to be somewhat difficult to track that one down this time of year. I've pulled all the carpets out that were easily accessible in the cabin. They were coming out for cleaning anyways so I'll just need to find that leak before I put them back in!

All my parts are here though, minus that one rotor so I'm hoping to be getting her mobile again by the end of the weekend... we'll see if I make it.