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  #181  
Old 04-19-2016, 09:23 PM
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It looks like you really need a trap-ox bypass pipe. One, it will loose about five pounds from the engine, and two it will save your new turbo, should the trap decide to come apart. Also, it looks so cool!

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Project Smokey Wagon 2014! - Mostly just noob questions inside. W123 1985 300TD-image.jpg  
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  #182  
Old 04-20-2016, 10:17 AM
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Agreed and agreed!

I had plans to build a trap ox bypass pipe as my first foray into welding, however immediate plans have changed and I won't be able to complete that in time. Really need the car back up and running in 10 or so days so that project had to be scrapped.

I don't know when, but I do know that my car at least had a trap oxidizer replaced under the recall so I know it's not the original, but don't know how old exactly it is.
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  #183  
Old 04-20-2016, 04:22 PM
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Question '85 MY Particle Trap

Can't it be gutted ? .
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  #184  
Old 04-20-2016, 04:30 PM
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While in theory yes, I think it would have to come off the car to be properly gutted. At which point I would probably just save the cancerous dust adventure and purchase ROLLGUY's replacement. However, so far so good with my trap ox. I have zero damage on my impellers so it's holding up fine for now.
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  #185  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:04 AM
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Almost back together...
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  #186  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:42 PM
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Kinda wish I hadn't gotten the MS kit, the instructions were pretty terrible- better for free online. Also, doesn't include everything you may need.

I'm looking to replace the bolts highlighted in red. I'm noticing one of them is pretty rounded and it might go back in but never out again.

EDIT: As luck would have it, I had a perfect match in my spare bolt collection.
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Last edited by WarTowels; 04-22-2016 at 03:30 PM.
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  #187  
Old 04-23-2016, 07:42 PM
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Added oil to the turbo before reassembling the top gasket, finished her up late last night. Currently the intake is my old honda filter (clean), the oem tubing and a pvc adapter between the filter and tubing. Car hasn't been started in a while and many changes have been made, but it fired up pretty quickly on the first try after 3 seconds of turnover. No oil leaking from any of the replaced gaskets! I let the car idle for almost a half hour and then shut it off and checked for more leaks. None to be found so far.

Then gave it a drive for about 15-20 miles completely off boost and now I'm checking again for leaks but so far so good. I'll put a couple more miles on and then give the turbo a test under load.

Car's running great though! Very smooth and much more responsive. Compared to how the car ran when I purchased it, it feels completely different- in a good way.
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  #188  
Old 04-28-2016, 02:34 PM
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I've put about 150 miles on the turbo rebuild and have boosted it a few times.

My Boost Pressure seems low (I did not inspect, test or alter the wastegate in any way). At full throttle I'm getting an indicated 6 PSI. (Reads 0 at idle, is that right? I'm used to seeing negative pressure.)

More importantly to me than the lower boost pressure is I'm still seeing oil between the turbo and the intake manifold. The metal piece there has fresh o-rings but still seems loose- I can move it with my fingers if I try. I spent a good bit of time when reinstalling the turbo to get it as best lined up as possible.


How can it be that there is oil on the cold side of the turbo going into the intake manifold?

All the turbo seals are fresh, so oil *shouldn't* be getting past any sort of bearings and into the intake.
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  #189  
Old 04-28-2016, 02:41 PM
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^ Oh also no visible oil coming from the newly installed catch can, so that seems to be doing it's job. No oil on the intake of the turbo either if you remove the intake tubing.

So it would seem to me the oil has to be coming from the turbo itself, but after brand new bearings and seals on a fresh rebuild this doesn't seem right? Bear in mind that the center housing of my turbo is brand new with fresh new bearings.

The only non new parts are the impeller/wheels.
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  #190  
Old 04-29-2016, 04:26 PM
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Interesting Greg ;

Have you cleaned out the banjo bolt that begins the ALAD's pressure sensing line ? it's at the back of the intake manifold then there's the overboost protection relay/valve , mine was plugged , I have cleaned it but I still don't get full boost readings at the ALDA so for now I have by passed the relay and easily get 10 # boost when under load and working ~ easy acceleration won't show much over 6 # , you need to step on it hard going up hill or running up through the gears to see full boost .

I really like the red turbo , maybe I'll go find a non California one and rebuilt it for my Coupe , get rid of that ding-dang ARV valve although I seem to have plenty of boost pressure right off idle .

Some oil in the intake is going to occur from oil vapors out the rockerbox vent pipe no matter what .

Keep working on it and letting us know what's what ~ I find this an instructional thread .
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  #191  
Old 05-02-2016, 04:38 PM
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Well bad news... I think my rear passenger wheel bearing is totally shot. The entire tire seems to be at an angle. I haven't jacked it up to check for play but I'm 99% sure it's busted. 10 days without needing a major fix would have been nice!

At least it was running well enough to help me move out of my apartment!
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  #192  
Old 05-02-2016, 05:00 PM
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That sucks. I have feared that job the whole time I have owned a wagon.

Dmorrison has a great thread / DIY writeup thingy on the rear wagon wheel bearing R&R. Its scary. I couldn't finish the thread, I already know I would never deal with that many special tools.

I would just buy a good rear arm.
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  #193  
Old 05-02-2016, 05:05 PM
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I had a similar setup on the '85. my air/oil separator was 'different'. Do you have any media in your catchcan?

blowby on diesels is higher than gas engines (where this method is typically employed).

When the engine gets moving, it might be moving quite a volume of gases through that can. then it hits the colder air in your intake snout and falls out of suspension as its slapped against that wall.

trick is to get that oil to hit something before that.

I would not condemn, your turbo just yet.


***edit

I misread where you were finding oil, sorry. My explanation is wrong here.
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Last edited by jt20; 05-03-2016 at 11:31 AM. Reason: misread previous post
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  #194  
Old 05-02-2016, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
I had a similar setup on the '85. my air/oil separator was 'different'. Do you have any media in your catchcan?
No medium in the catch can, just empty space.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
I would just buy a good rear arm.
Do you mean hub??

Greg
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  #195  
Old 05-02-2016, 05:19 PM
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no. I think I would just buy a whole arm with the hub and bearing in it already. Maybe I over-complicated the process when I last looked into it.

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