Was the W123 240D automatic transmission always a 722.117?
I've heard rumors that it was changed later on to a 722.3(15?) but have not been able to confirm these.
EPC says it was only the 117

I've got someone that needs an auto trans for their 240D and I don't have any 117s available.
I'm guessing the the vacuum-controlled 722.118 would be the best match and that later models with Bowden cable would be less ideal?

I did find this thread with some useful info on the differences between the 117 and 118:
Transmission Interchange ?? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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Unless the driver is a paraplegic or an amputee, they will be better served by a manual transmission. The conversion is a little more work than just swapping slushbuckets, but is totally worth it once you drive it.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

The .118 was for the five cylinder motor, so some gear ratios could be different.

I have never heard of someone with a 240d mating up a later transmission (a Bowden cable unit) but people with 5-cylinder NA motors have. I had a thread going on this a long time ago, when I was looking for options for my dead .118.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

It's not immediately available but I have a good 240D auto transmission in a driving 240D that I got for the interior and engine.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

The 722.404 was eventually fitted to the last of the 240Ds but that seems to have been a European thing and here they are as common as rocking horse ****

I think you are better off with the 722.118 if you can't find anything else. It is at least vacuum only. Fitting in a modulating pressure linkage to a vacuum only transmission would be a pain.

The gearing is exactly the same so you don't have to worry about that.

The pressure tuning information is indeed different as shown by Govert in the BW thread.

I'm not 100% sure of the physical differences between the .117 and the .118 - the differences could be in the valve bodies and / or the governors - but you might find that it comes down to the vacuum modulator (I'm pretty sure these are different).

I'll check in the German language FSM for you (where Govert found that other information)...

...I'll be back

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

This. I recently converted my 240D to a manual and its like driving a totally different car. If I had been motivated and had all parts on hand when I started I could have finished it in a weekend.

They were the same on my transmissions...

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I can't find anything in the (German) FSM to suggest they are different. I have found in the ATSG manual, however, reference to the lengths of the pins fitted between the vacuum dashpot and the bit it pushes up against in the transmission (wonderful technical term usage from me there!)

I'm a bit disappointed - the 722.3 transmission data in WIS (and the German FSM) is much better. Part numbers for the valve bodies, vacuum dashpots and the governors are all listed and tabulated => it is an orgasmic feast of geek-dom...

...but for the 722.1 you get nadha zip ****...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The EPC says that the transmission cases are different on the 117 vs. all the other diesel transmissions. But the EPC is not always reliable.
Has anyone looked at these two transmissions side by side?

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I have interchanged them in my 300td. Does that count?

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I have one sitting on a bench... no idea if it works. I never drove the car. Want it?

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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

No thanks. Shipping would be $150-$200

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This data will be very year based (if I had EPC I'd check for you but - heelaas).

I can imagine that the early non vacuum casing has a different number => should be the same as say a 722.120 or a 722.112 because they all had the rod connection for the modulating pressure thing (what's often referred to as a Bowden rod - this is a bastardisation of the correct term of Bowden cable used in the 722.3/4/5 blah blah blah...)

I'd expect the later - post 1980 722.117 and 722.118 transmissions to have the same case number because they both were the vacuum only - so the case don't have the hole at the front for the throttle linkage connection (also a variation on Bowden...)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

From the technical data manual, see below.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 SD

84 CD

Hello all,

New to the forum, as I've just purchased a 1981 300D with a non-turbo OM617 (I think .912?). Wanted to let you all know that I've found some extremely useful info on here, and I always like to return the favor and post my findings after completing repairs.

I purchased the car with 187,000 on the clock for $700 with the understanding that it would go into gear. Did a full service on the trans (filter, fluid, and vacuum check of the dashpot) and still the car wouldn't even budge. If I jacked the rear wheels off the ground, they would spin, but the transmission would never shift. If put into reverse with the rear wheels still off the ground, they would turn slowly forward, then backwards, then sometimes forward again....strange!

Long story short, it looked like the transmission was shot (and a waste of $40 of transmission fluid). The car was built with a 122.118, and I removed this transmission. Luckily enough I located a salvaged 122.117 an hour and a half's drive away for $250. It was removed from a 1982 240D. Known good unit, just the donor car rusted out.

When I removed the 122.118 I inspected the torque converter and immediately spotted the issue....both of the "tabs" / "ears" on the torque converter's shaft were sheared off! As they say, "well there's your problem"! Thankfully my replacement 122.117 came with a torque converter. Filled the new converter with fluid, and after hours of trying to align the new transmission to the flywheel housing, everything connected flawlessly. It appears to me the housing of the 122.117 and 122.118 are exactly the same. Hooked everything up and went for a drive. I will tell you, it was a good feeling when the car "clunked" into both reverse and forward. The car drove perfectly, with no flaring to speak of and smooth shifts.

The only issue I have to resolve now are the banjo fittings at the bottom of the transmission. I have new crush washers coming in the mail today. The banjo bolt for the fill tube was leaking badly, with the two oil cooler bolts leaking slightly (admittedly I reused the crush washers on the cooler lines....I know that is a bad practice but I was eager to drive the car to see if the repair worked). The AutoZone crush washers on the fill tube didn't work well at all.

Does anyone know the correct size crush washers to use on the three banjo fittings?

Thanks in advance!