Getting ready to tackle a monster job on my '83 300CD

Need to change out:
-subframe bushings
-differential mount
-CVJs
-rear bearings
-trailing arm bushings

apparently for the trailing arm bushings, the subrame has to be dropped

just wondering if this will work: Pelican Parts.com - AC Floor Jack Cross Beam Adaptor

There is a jack adapter that is in the FSM for lowering the subrame and differential, but I can't find it, and if I did its probably super expensive.

any thoughts?

If you're looking to do all that work, which is a great idea all at the same time, then try to disconnect the entire rear end / rear subframe from the body.

It can be done with the rear wheels still attached and the whole unit will roll out from underneath the car.

Brakes and parking brake must be disconnected as well as driveshaft.

Seems like a lot of work... but worth if you're doing the axles and all that rubber.

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you won't need any special tools. other than what you use to press the rubber in.

a floor jack will suffice if you have good jack points and 2 MB stock jacks.

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When did mine, I used 3 floor jacks. One under each Trailing Arm, and one under the diff.
Once the DL, Shocks, Calipers etc... are disconnected, just roll the assembly out from under the car.
If you are on create it is easy.

When you install it, roll it under and then lift up, Connect the Sub Frame Bolts, install the springs and rubber pad.
Lift up making sure the Springs are in their pockets.
Then put in the 4 13mm bolts for the Diff Mount.

There is a number of ways to do it.

If you are interested in the cross piece for the jack you posted that Pelican shows.
Harbor freight has it and on sale for $39.99.

Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam


Charlie

Sent from my pos computer

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I strongly recommend the vehicle is secured from rolling forward or back with chocks or straps.

__________________
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"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I would think that you could use a piece of 2x4 to achieve the same effect... maybe a 2x4 with an additional piece of 2x4 at each end, with a bolt running through the center to attach it to a jack. Like this:

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Shame on the two of us giving info and leaving out safety.

That is the most important part of the project. You need to have the vehicle safely secure so it will not roll or move in any way.

When I removed the Sub Frame assy out of the 85, then went back under the car, it gave me the hebbie jebbies thinking...what if?

I placed a stack of mounted tires under each side for just incase.

Before I did the job, I called Roy (Whunter) how to safely support the car when there is basically only sheet metal to support it. Was afraid of bending something.

Roy said to use some rod in the Jack Hole and place the jack Stands under them.

Rooster300SD posted here how he did it.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/371334-replace-trailing-arm-subframe.html




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I had a Fab Shop make mine, 3/4" rod into the holes, left about 6" out, then bend 15deg so they were level.

If your jack holes are rusted out, then that changes things, you have no structural support.


Charlie


sent from my pos computer

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

really my only reason for dropping the subframe is the 4 bushings in the trailing arms.

I prefer to do all the other rubber bits and bearing with the subframe on the car.

With that said, i'll probably just do the 4 bushings first, then mounts, then axles and bearings.

it seems like the bearings will be the toughest part of this undertaking. therefore it will be done last.

funny how the most work is done to change out the least expensive parts.
trailing arm bushings are $7 a piece lemforders

oh well, at least the whole front end is done.

I always laid a 2x4 along the subframe and put my jack under that. I never trusted the jack points.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Did this last year myself. Also would not trust the jack holes.

While it's all apart, you might want to replace the diff seals, too. I also replaced drive shaft center bearing and bearing mount. Just easy and cheap while you're in there.

And - dunno the miles on your axles - but rebuild of these was the driver of my project. Per advice from guys here, I reversed them on re-fit to put the stresses on the opposite faces for the next 300k miles!

__________________
'83 300 SD
'68 Triumph TR 250 - The only car I ever loved more than the Mercedes; who needs electricity, anyway? - Damn, why did I sell it?!
'59 Jaguar 3.4 'Le Chat Noir' - Damn, why did I sell it?!

It's difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.
- Niels Bohr

If I lived in the Salt/Rust belt, I wouldn`t trust the Jack Holes either.


Charlie


Sent from my pos computer

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I've used all thread placed thru the shock mounts to lower and install the rear SF ass'y solo. floor jack under the diff.

I used a short 2x4 block on the bottom of the threaded rod where the lower shock mt is.

Chocks, are very important. When you have no idea whether the emergency brake is usable. I learned this just this month when working on my Nephew's Jeep that was on a mild incline city street to try to ascertain where a coolant leak was originating from. I had him engage the E brake, but failed to see whether it was actually operational when checking out the Jeep w/o chocks. Later, I tried the E brake while fueling it, and learned it was 'no-good.' Just lucky earlier is all. I learned something new - yet again to not rely on, w/o knowing, or, chocking the vehicle, just in case.

In my garage - I use both jack-pads, and, under-frame, superstructure/frame area support on the MB.