I haven't touched anything internal. I haven't adjusted anything. I replaced a valve cover gasket and painted it. This is so stupid.

Anyway. Maybe the pump has died because it sat for almost a year before I tried to start it. its been a long project. The engine has been in the truck since last December. I just haven't had time to work on it. So I finally got some time. Plumbed all the oil cooler lines, coolant lines and fuel lines. There isn't anything electrical hooked up on the engine other than the starter and the grounding wires. everything else is stock.

i put a new fuel filter on it and a new oil filter before i installed it.

The car ran before and if you put a new fuel filter in that is something that was changed and should be suspect. I would take the filter out and inspect with a magnifier that all the gaskets and seals are correct and not damaged. Do you have the 01 or 02 fuel filter housing? In a diesel fuel system, there should not be any wetness from fuel anywhere and there should be no bubble like you have in the clear return or supply line at anytime. You definitely have an air in fuel problem and you should concentrate on fixing that before adjusting timing or valves.

If the system is primed, you should be getting a pretty fair amount coming out of each injector. Not a full on stream, but enough to need a towel for to keep things from getting everywhere.

I agree with some of the previous post as to cranking with the injector lines cracked open. It's easier if you have a helper that can crank wheel you open them one at a time. You should only need about 2-3 of the cylinders firing in order for the engine to catch.

Also, the lift pump might be suspect. Out of the 3 engines I've messed with they have all been crudded up and need of cleaning. But make sure everything is well bled before.

On the Jeep, we installed an electric fuel pump in line but before the lift pump. Seems to have improved the power a little bit and makes bleeding and timing situations much less of a chore.

Just my .02

An old benz mechanical IP dosent "Die" like that from sitting for a yr. maybe for 24, yrs, maybe.
Its frustraiting but step back, take a couple bong hits and think it thru again.

on Saturday, it almost fired up. I got lots of smoke, it kicked on for about 20 seconds. But I think the pump isn't working well enough.

So i got another MW Pump (used). I'll attempt to swap them out this week. hopefully it'll be the difference that the engine needs.

I've noticed a small puddle under my range rover. I believe its diesel. But I can't really tell for sure, I can't see a leak from the pump anywhere. But when I pull the IP, i'll inspect it.

Which pump is better?

The MW or M pump

The MW ,the ones with the alda on top of the ip,is designed for the turbo moter----> Your M pump is rare in America, most Na's came with the non turbo MW, but a few came with the euro spec M.
The ricky racers like to have dilusions of greatness that they will scratch up enough dinero to have these reworked with bigger barrels and plungers so they can have a racing 617.

I have a set of barrels and plungers. I think they are 8.5 mm, if i remember right. I bought them about a year ago.

I imagine installing them into the M pump would be a pain, and on top of that i will need bigger injectors.

And since this is not a race car, but an off road /exploring truck, loads of black smoke isn't necessary.

hmm, did you pay thru the nose for them from Europe or...?
the 603 m pump has 6.5 ones it it, a little bigger than the 5er, but you still have to find an "outlaw" IP shop to swap them and calibrate.
the above the board shops are legally bound by bosch not to do such stuff -or loose their license.

in a world gone nuts with "rollin coal idjuts" though ,theres probably plenty more Wink wink shops around now, the MW is basically a 5 hole version of the cummins P pump.

So, that means Dieselmeken does not have a Bosch liscense?

have no idea, just what a local shop told me, and what they mentioned about another----> that I wouldn't allow to work on a lawn mower
anyone in N Texas , Stay Away from
Lone star injection.

8.5mm is pretty big, mind you the MW pump has a shorter stroke or something vs the M....no you won't need bigger injectors...bigger turbo yes :P

Later "turbo" M pumps had 6mm elements.
No Bosch shops ever adjust things above stock settings. Might not even know how to...

At any time has the Vacuum shut of unit been removed from the pump.
If installed incorrectly the rack cannot move to the open position. This can be seen by removing two screws from the altitude control assembly and rotating the plate on the third bolt to see inside the pump and the position of the arm that pulls the rack back to shut off the fuel.

So I pulled out the pump. Set the timing to 24 degrees on the engine and set the pump to the prescribed position with the markings on it.

Then I stuck it back in. Started to prime it. As I started priming it, fuel started staying out of the primer. So it looks to me like my lift pump must have been the issue all along.

I found the rebuild parts locally. So I will go pick those up today.

Then hopefully it'll work. I'd rather use the M pump than the MW pump anyway. There isn't a lot of crap on the M pump like there is on the MW


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The primer is not re-buildable afaik. If you have a primer with a white knob, it is normal for it to spill fuel all over while priming. Did you turn the white knob c.w. to shut the valve after priming? If you didn't it'd suck air. I'd replace the white primer with the updated black smaller version. It'll pay for itself soon by eliminating the fuel spill, never mind the mess.

Agree. I still have the original white primer in my 81 300SD and the few times that I have used it, it leaked diesel fuel. But it worked. You unscrew it to pump and I kept my thumb over the center portion while pumping. Then screw it back when finished. Have not used it in maybe ten years but that is how it worked.