I'm confused. The FSM says to:

1. Measure the frictional torque before removing and record the measurement.

2. Remove the 30mm nut.

3 Pull the yoke.

4. Reinstall the nut in increments while frequently checking frictional torque.

5. If the recorded value of frictional torque is reached before the 30mm bolt has been torqued to 180 nm then replace the elastic spacing sleeve.

So, if this is correct why would anyone start this project without a new spacing sleeve? Which one of the dozen listed for a 1985 380 SE differential is the correct application for my 1985 380 SE? How do I find out which one is right?

Would a torque wrench in increments of Ncm or a torque angle and rotational check test measure gauge meter be best for this job?

Do I have any of this right?

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

The crush sleeve or "elastic spacing sleeve" is between the two tapered roller bearings on the pinion shaft.

To get to it you need to dismantle the entire differential.

The other problem that can happen when trying to get back to the same friction is =>

The whole measuring friction thing is trying to set pre-load on the tapered roller bearings - this can go wrong big time when the bearings are worn. You just won't get near to the friction you measured when you took it to bits. Also in the FSM there's a minimum friction that should be there in the first place - if this is not achievable then the bearings need to be replaced.

If the bearings need to be replace you need to go through s tricky process of adjusting the mesh of the pinion and crown wheel to stop whining / weird noises / over heating / death and destruction...

...as for your last question do you want to know which final drive ratio was fitted to a particular model?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Oh and do you realise that your speedometer is "tuned" to the final drive ratio?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

No, but I don't care. I have way too much to do on this car to stress over the inaccuracies of a speedometer. I have the entire interior out, have just finished putting the 300 turbo diesel in the body and rewiring the cruise, preglow and the cluster's D-plug so I could use the diesel cluster and have the same accurate warning system.

I've also gather all the most difficult to replace parts such as; shifter bushings, turbo drain tube and it's rubber rings and a couple other boxes full of stuff. I'll probably use a GPS until I get used to the difference in the speedometer.

Thanks you for setting me straight on this. It's much cheaper than a than the way the local police do it.

Regarding your first response, I thought it was part #43a on the picture since part 42 doesn't look like a bearing.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I may be wrong but I just set mine to near the recorded reading of torque resistance. I'm thinking slightly less is better as mine now has a tiny bit of whine. BTW, take note the axles need to be near level for this reading. Also, it was no where near the 180Nm mentioned.

For the speedometer error, I just did a test using GPS on my cell phone and got an idea of the error. Switching from the 3.07 to 2.47 caused approximately a 15 mph difference at 70. Of course, how much you focus on this will depend on the strictness of law enforcement in your area. As long as you aren't racing past the flow of traffic, they tend to be fairly tolerant in Texas. Eventually, I would like to do some research and find out the components on the cluster that calibrate this. It's probably something simple.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Don't get confused between the torque needed for the nut on the end of the pinion shaft and the measured friction torque (and the limit for this)

...also if the whining happens when you let off the accelerator then the chance is quite good that the pinion nut wasn't done up as tight as it should have been (!)

Fair enough - you can always "re-calibrate" the speedo by putting on lumps of masking tape and the speed written in felt tip pen!

I don't know how reliable GPS is in hilly areas though - here in Holland it isn't a problem of course. Next time I go to England in the car I'll see if I can see a difference in registered speed between the speedo and the GPS as I hammer it up the big hill out of Dover past the foreign truckers...

Nope - that looks like some sort of washer.

The crush thing should be part number 1083530042 - should be - I'm about 82.35% sure about that one...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

C88:

This whole exercise can be avoided by changing the transmission yoke (three-legged flange) to the larger one from the gasser trans, and then using the prop-shaft from the gasser. You will gain the larger flex-discs on both ends of the prop-shaft.

I appreciate that. I've already purchased the flex disk. I want the 247 gear too, bad enough to figure this stuff out.

I'm retired and have nothing to stress over except this car. That's why I'm going to the trouble of putting a diesel in the black 85 SE body.

I went to ridiculous lengths to get the wiring exactly as the FSM shows. I made the home run with the little purple wire from Connector 105 to the preglow box. I even tied the original wiring feeds into the fuse box with the screws on the underside of the exact fuse number shown in the paper card in the cover and FSM. I'm even buying new leather for the front seats and new vinyl for the door panels. Everything.

I love this stuff, it keeps me off the street corner and out of the bars.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Stretch, the mercedes parts site says you're right. Part labeled 43 is a seal, I'm guessing it keeps dirt away from the bearing. You're also correct about the part number. It's a spacer which is sandwiched between a pair of bearings.

Thanks.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

If you have not removed the 2.47 gear from the SE (gasser) chassis, it's in there, waiting for you to use the new flex disc and the SE prop shaft.

The new flex disk are matched to the diesel transmission and drive shaft. They won't fit the SE yoke, that's why I'm changing the yoke.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Is changing the speedometer in the cluster gauge the simple solution to this issue? I will do that if you tell me it will be the correct fix.

I am using the dash from an 86 420SEL so it's going to be recognized as a half breed by the trained eye. The body does have the low mileage as will be reflected on the odometer.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Hmm... mine is just the opposite. It has a slight whine at slow speed, usually before it's warmed up, when I initially take off. After that, it's quiet as can be. Do you think it might be a good idea to reset the torque? It hasn't been driven much at all since I worked in this area.(less than 200 mi.)

Clemson88
The electronic speedometer is tuned from the instrument cluster end. I'm thinking the speedometer from your 300SE would solve the accuracy problem. It certainly is a very easy swap out to verify if it works.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

That's exactly what I'm going to try. I might feel a little guilty having a 300K engine and an odometer reading 87 thousand but if I get an accurate speed reading I'll get over it.

__________________
84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Yes so long as the cluster fits - there might be a difference between the generations in the W126 - I'm not 100% sure. It might be possible to fit just the speedo bit within the old cluster though...

...I'm not really W126 fine detail orientated - sorry

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!