if used in brakes, especially, that its flashpoint is much too low -- instead of boiling and producing brake fade on the way down Pike's Peak, it might begin to burn. Besides that, viscosity stability at an extreme temperature range is very important, and only _synthetic_ hydraulic oils might have a chance here -- but would they still be compatible with the types of seal materials needed to deal with the above problems? -- cf. the silicone DOT 5 dilemma: great in British braking systems from the 50s and 60s (including my much lamented '66 Lancia Fulvia Coupe), but bad for anything else.

Jim Anderson

That is just a super question!

I dunno...

But I think blake fluid IS hydraulic fluid. But it is different than "jack oil" used in hydraulic jacks. Hmmmm.

I am sure "they" did some research and have arrived at this stuff after much testing.

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

And if water is so bad why did they use sponge fluid? Did they have square pants

Is this string about Sponge Bob changing his brake fluid ?

__________________
David McDonald
1981 240D
1985 300D (wrecked)
1985 300TD 365,000 miles
1969 Mustang Fastback

Dont be silly! SpongeBob is a worthless boat driver and will never get his boating license. Therefore he will never need brakes. So there.

do you folks think this will work for bleeding. It sounds good. any other suggestion on flushing/bleeding the brake system. I have to do that on my MB and my wife's Accord.

http://www.mityvac.com/techindex.html

MVK

__________________
One penny saved is three penny earned.

1985 300D Turbo 179,000miles

Vacuum generally works just fine for brake bleeding, but for overall use plus a terrific way to flush brake fluid, a good pressure tool is hard to beat. I use a product called the Speedi-Bleed brake bleeder and change brake fluid evey 2 years, it takes me 20-25 minutes, plus I get a great pedal.

http://www.speedibleed.com

I was travelling 1000+ miles a week when I first bought my MB last summer. I paid an Indy shop to flush the brakes, among other things, as part of my long held belief that you should change all of the fluids on a car that is new to you. I simply did not have time to take care of it myself, but knew it needed to be done.

Maybe the reason I was so sure it needed to be done was the condition of the brake fluid that came out of the system on a 10 year old Audi 5000 I once had. It came out like catsup.

-Jim

__________________
1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

sorry for being ignorant.. but this thread repeated at leasat twice (as far as i could remember) not using DOT3. It explains the difference in boiling point of the DOT3 and DOT4. It shows on my Brake fluid reservoir to only use DOT3. So what now?? I use ATE brake fluid.. the Blue colored one.

I've never had problems with my braking, but i do change it once a year... so far no brake fades, (except when i reach the point where i have to change my brake pads.. duh!!)..

__________________
Mike

----------------------------------
1975 200 - Sold (no pix);
1978 200 - Sold - http://www.pbase.com/hboy/redbaron
1979 300TD - Sold
http://www.pbase.com/hboy/greenwagon
http://www.geocities.com/hboy726/300TD.html
1985 230E - now my daily driver...

Everyone has an old ear cleaner lying around. They work great for sucking brake fluid out of the reservoir. Just don't put it back in yer' ear

I gotta tell ya Bob, I am still working on this one...

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

This works better.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm

Could this be why car pulls to the right and breaking is minmal in the rain/wet?

__________________
1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

It should not have anything to do with rain, and hydroscopic, etc.
Sounds like you have front calipers which need to be taken apart and cleaned, and perhaps new seals put in.

I would try bleeding/changing the brake fluid first. That can free up the caliper sometimes.

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

I think you mean Hydrophylic not Hydroscopic (hydro=water; phylic=love), but I could be wrong.

ATLD