I'm trying to adjust the toe, and the outside end of the tie rod won't turn.
I have a style that is clamped on the inside (nearest the engine) and has a nut that tightens the outside end (nearest the tire).
I have loosened the clamp on the inside, and the nut out the outside.
When I turn the tie rod, the inside that was clamped now spins in its threads, but the the outside part does not want to budge. I don't know if I am going to put too much pressure on the ball joint or what kind of damage may come from putting too much torque on it. Is there a technique to doing this? Is there another part on that nut-tightened end that needs to be loosened?

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Tie rods that have been on a long time are problematic. I have had the threads come out before when trying to change the ball joint on the end of it. I resorted to buying an assembly with the ball joint attached after that.

Toe should not change... possibly you should be replacing some other suspension parts instead of trying to adjust toe.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I disagree. Toe-in changes any time the car's height changes, and that is common as the front springs sag.

I assume you sprayed WD-40 on the stuck threads and gave it a day to sink in. Try grabbing the fat housing of the tie-rod end with a pipe wrench or large vise grips. You could also try heating the threaded end w/ a propane torch until red. Worst-case if you force it is you would need a new outer tie rod end and adjuster. You can buy those for most U.S. cars, but perhaps junkyard for M-B. Mine were never stuck, but CA cars and don't know if you live in the salty north.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

The toe hasn't changed, it was improperly adjusted when it was done professionally. I had gotten new tires and was on my way out of town and didn't have time to complain. By the time I got back a half-year later I felt all bets were off, and that was a couple of years ago.

Would you recommend just torquing on it and letting the ball joint provide the resistance needed to crack the threads? Or is there some sort of pickle fork I can stick in there to stop it?

I guess I'll let some penetrating fluid sit on it overnight and see what happens tomorrow. Thanks.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

The comment about needing to change other parts is likely correct but has nothing to do with toe. WD-40 does nothing for rust. WD is for "water dispersal". Kroil or any other penetrating fluid that deals with rust will help. Replace the tie rods if you can't get it loose.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I had a similar problem with my 190D a couple of years ago. The alignment tech came out of the shop and told me he couldn't adjust the tie rod. I thought he was kidding or lazy. But I took it home and worked it, and sure enough, it was frozen solid. Neither penetrating oil nor heat would work. I finally bit the bullet and bought a new tie rod assembly.

Okay, I'm back at it. I had the thing adjusted pretty well, but I was concerned that I may have put too much tension on the spreader, so I thought I'd ease it off a bit. But after measuring everything, I have some questions.

I bought a large clamp that I turned around to function as a spreader, and I can hit both tires a little below 3 or 9 o'clock (because of the oil pan). I don't know how much pressure to put on it, but I think I can get a tension that is reasonable. Now, when I run the fishing line (73,1mm off the center by the hub cap in rear, and 50mm at the front), put the spreader between the front tires, and zero the toe, I would expect the car to end up with toe IN when I remove the spreader. As it turns out, when I drive it around, put the string up, and measure, I end up with about 5mm toe OUT. Is this right?

EDIT:
Screw it. I zero'd it out without the spreader bar in there and it's driving pretty nicely.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather