Compression Tester

[inzgary]

I tried doing a compression test using the harborfreight tester but it is junk. What would you guys recommend buying/renting for a valid compression test? It will probably only be used once.

[Maxbumpo]

Does the engine start OK in cold weather? If yes, then you've performed the ultimate compression test and no further testing is required.

What is the problem you are trying to solve?

[inzgary]

The problem I have with this engine is it will start right up and run fine for about 10 seconds, then it starts missing until it warms up. Coldest start was probably 20°F, it started right up but ran very rough.

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

If the motor is running really rough, have you tried doing a diesel purge? I've included a link to the procedure - please let us know if you have any questions!

Mercedes-Benz W123 Diesel Purge | 300TD 1977-1985 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

[jake12tech]

Check the glow plugs, but valve adjustments will do the same thing. Valves too tight.

[inzgary]

Heres what I've done so far:
Diesel purge and new filters- it ran better for a day.
Valve adjust- exhaust valves were tight.
Replaced all fuel lines, primer pump, and fuel filter o rings- these were all leaking.
Replaced glow plugs and reamed- can see them working properly with the injectors out.

None of these have helped with the issue. It does run great once warmed up though and seems very happy at high rpms.

[jake12tech]

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

I tried testing them, but I always get inconclusive results.

How are you testing them? Where are you testing them? What setting on your multimeter? You're not doing something right if you have inconclusive results man

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

My engine is the same, runs HORRIBLE when cold but good when warm, missing at idle, lot's of blue, then white smoke. I'm guessing low compression for me.

Sounds like bad glow plugs. Low compression is not likely.

Originally Posted by inzgary

Heres what I've done so far:
Diesel purge and new filters- it ran better for a day.
Valve adjust- exhaust valves were tight.
Replaced all fuel lines, primer pump, and fuel filter o rings- these were all leaking.
Replaced glow plugs and reamed- can see them working properly with the injectors out.

None of these have helped with the issue. It does run great once warmed up though and seems very happy at high rpms.

It ran better for a day. Did the temperature vary from the previous cold start? Perhaps got warmer when it ran better that day?

[Father Of Giants]

Originally Posted by jake12tech

How are you testing them? Where are you testing them? What setting on your multimeter? You're not doing something right if you have inconclusive results man


Sounds like bad glow plugs. Low compression is not likely.


It ran better for a day. Did the temperature vary from the previous cold start? Perhaps got warmer when it ran better that day?

Also warm and cold are based on operating temperature. Even when 90*f outside, it still runs horrible.
I had it set for resistance, but numbers kept fluctuating, it's been so long ago I forgot how I did it honestly.

[sloride]

AutoZoo loans many tools free. They do charge you but refund the price when returned making it a free loan, not sure if a compression tester is in that program though, or any better than the HF item..

[Dan Stokes]

My HF unit works fine. I'd simply take it back and exchange it - they've always been really good about that. If you have the receipt it's dead easy and I've even gotten some stuff replaced w/o receipt by talking with the manager. Of course, they DO know my face when I walk in there.

Dan

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

Also warm and cold are based on operating temperature. Even when 90*f outside, it still runs horrible.
I had it set for resistance, but numbers kept fluctuating, it's been so long ago I forgot how I did it honestly.

Turn the switch and see how long the glow cycle last. If you leave the driver's door open watch the light to see when it brightens.

If the cycle is as it should be replace the glow plugs with a new set of Bosch.

[crazy4diesel]

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

Also warm and cold are based on operating temperature. Even when 90*f outside, it still runs horrible.
I had it set for resistance, but numbers kept fluctuating, it's been so long ago I forgot how I did it honestly.

Do you have blow by also when the engine is at operating temp?

[Father Of Giants]

My engine is the same, runs HORRIBLE when cold but good when warm, missing at idle, lot's of blue, then white smoke. I'm guessing low compression for me.

[OM617YOTA]

The HF compression tester is actually OK. Obviously for professional use you'd want something better, but for the occasional home user it's fine. The 90 deg elbow for testing in the glow plug hole will fall apart, replace it with a JIC fitting from your local hydraulics shop. A well stocked auto parts or farm store may have it as well.

Add a chunk of clear tubing to your fuel return line, see if you have air in your system.

Have your injectors pop tested and rebuilt if necessary.

Check delivery valves and seals, look up the delivery valve thread. I chased "runs like crap when cold runs better but still poorly when warm" symptoms for years, came down to delivery valve seals.

[t walgamuth]

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

My engine is the same, runs HORRIBLE when cold but good when warm, missing at idle, lot's of blue, then white smoke. I'm guessing low compression for me.

Sounds like a bad glow or two to me.