IP install, tools & parts required?

[Bimmer-Bob]

Starting to plan an injection pump R&R, and I want to make sure I have everything squared away before I get started. I will be reading and re-reading the FSM and every forum post I can find on the subject, but I especially don't want to get caught without some required tool or part, and have to put everything on hold for weeks while I wait for something to be ordered from Germany or something.

Ok, so far I have: the injection pump & O-ring.

I know I need: timing pin to lock IP (widely available), A/B light to time IP (have a lead on renting one of these), timing basket (anyone have a part number? I know my car doesn't have one because it wasn't there when I recently swapped the VP).

I'd like to replace: rubber fuel lines to and from the IP (I think I have all part numbers for these), vacuum lines to and from the IP (what size do I need?)

Anything I'm overlooking? Thanks!

[compress ignite]

Off the: top of what's left of my Cranium:
1.If you've got the Pump off it's a great time to replace the rubber gasketing
for the access plates !

[Diseasel300]

If you know that the timing chain is in good shape and you use the timing pin lock, you don't need the A/B light.

You'll also want an intake manifold gasket and possibly new plastic clips and rubber pads for your injection lines. The intake manifold needs to come out to do the IP. I'm sure you could do it with it in place, but it's a frustrating enough job with adequate clearance.

Having swapped the IP more times than anyone ever should in a single engine, it helps to have a 2nd person assist you when lining up the IP and installing the bolts. The tensioner gets in the way and can be a real PITA if you're trying to balance the IP and make sure everything is in the right place.

Another experience call: File the slot in the timing lock pin deeper. Use the side of a file to cut a square-profile slot in it. The face of the tool has a V-shaped notch in it (but the pin on the IP is square-profile). It doesn't do that great of a job securely holding the pin from moving. Believe me, you don't want to install the IP and discover AFTER you put the bolts in that the tool came loose and the pin moved.

[Bimmer-Bob]

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

If you know that the timing chain is in good shape and you use the timing pin lock, you don't need the A/B light.

Timing chain is new one year ago. The AB light rental is cheap enough that I'm willing to spring for it just for peace of mind. It will gnaw at me otherwise! I wouldn't buy the thing for one job, though.

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

You'll also want an intake manifold gasket and possibly new plastic clips and rubber pads for your injection lines.

I replaced most of those when I did the injector nozzles, but I think I lost one, and I have a metal bracket leftover that I need to figure out where to put. I'm tracking on the gaskets, in fact I think I have an extra laying around. Will probably get around to the EGR delete while the manifold is off, and have all the soot cleaned out as well. I will say that IM removal looks like a royal pain, especially dealing with all the throttle linkages and cruise control actuator. Planning lots of pictures before starting.

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

Having swapped the IP more times than anyone ever should in a single engine, it helps to have a 2nd person assist you when lining up the IP and installing the bolts. The tensioner gets in the way and can be a real PITA if you're trying to balance the IP and make sure everything is in the right place.

Thanks for the heads up. Doesn't the timing basket help here? Have you done with and without? You know a part number for the thing?

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

Another experience call: File the slot in the timing lock pin deeper. Use the side of a file to cut a square-profile slot in it. The face of the tool has a V-shaped notch in it (but the pin on the IP is square-profile). It doesn't do that great of a job securely holding the pin from moving. Believe me, you don't want to install the IP and discover AFTER you put the bolts in that the tool came loose and the pin moved.

Good thinking! There are several versions around, so I'll see if any are deeper and/or flat, as you describe - otherwise I'll modify accordingly.

Does the pump need to be primed with fuel or oil after install? Or do you just crank and crank and crank until she starts up?

[Bimmer-Bob]

Originally Posted by compress ignite

Off the: top of what's left of my Cranium:
1.If you've got the Pump off it's a great time to replace the rubber gasketing
for the access plates !

Thanks! Replacement pump is new/rebuilt, so no need to mess with any of that.

[Diseasel300]

While the intake manifold is off, definitely clean out the sludge. If it hasn't been off before, you may be surprised how choked up it is with crap. The intake runners on my SDL were so impacted with carbon and oil sludge that it was breathing through holes ~1.5cm in diameter! Be prepared for a mess, that black crap that comes out is really hard to get off anything it touches, make sure you wear gloves, old clothes, and do it in a place that can get dirty without consequence.

I did use the timing basket with mine. Fortunately my car still had the OEM one in place so I didn't have to hunt one down, unfortunately I don't have a part number. Supposedly they are expensive and hard to come by. The IP is fairly heavy and difficult to maneuver. The location of the IP in the engine compartment is also such that it quickly becomes exhausting trying to balance it while you line up the splines and get everything aligned so that it will go into place. Having a helper is a luxury worth the nice meal you buy him for helping you out.

The FSM says nothing about lubricating the new pump when installing. Because I didn't want to crank it dry, I pulled the EDS solenoid and poured in about a pint of oil. If you want to prime the fuel rack as well, remove the lift pump and operate the pushrod until you burp the air out of the fuel rack.

[Maxbumpo]

You'll need to remove the vacuum pump to access the bolt holding the IP timer gear to the IP shaft, so get a new gasket for that. New copper washer for the timing chain tensioner.

I did not have the timing chain basket, and I've done the job with out it, by myself. If you get a helper to hold the timing gear in place while you move the IP into place, you'll be fine.