Looking for part numbers - W123 1985 Mercedes 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

marco5 · #1 09-28-2017, 03:34 PM

Hello,

I require some specific parts and they are listed below. I am located in Hamilton, Ontario.

Car is a W123 1985 300D Turbo Diesel. Really need these part numbers because mercedes benz can't even find them

.

a) Plastic clip for electronics. On the rear of the firewall there is a small plastic compartment that is supposed to hold some wires.

b) On the fuel injector lines, there is a clip that is supposed to hold a cable that has snapped. It wraps around.

moon161 · #2 09-28-2017, 04:20 PM

Call the mercedes classic center.
https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/enthusiast/classic_center#module-6

dcraigk · #3 09-29-2017, 01:31 AM

The plastic clip at the firewall always break.

Rick76 · #4 09-29-2017, 05:19 AM

Have a close look at that plastic clip.
It may have the part number on it. Look on the back of it.

It holds connector C158 fuel rack position sensor and C155 engine speed sensor. It looks very similar to a clip used for the ABS sensors on early 126 and 124's. Part number 126 545 08 40.

The metal clip might be a 617 159 13 40, however I have not seen a good photo or drawing to confirm.

BillGrissom · #5 09-29-2017, 03:20 PM

I had that black torpedo housing in my 1985 CA 300D. Since I installed an earlier engine w/o the IP rack position sensor, the car-side wires are just hanging. Indeed, I was recently pondering what they used to go to. If I recall, you pop open the torpedo and will see small individual spade connectors. The rack sensor applies to 1984 & 1985 U.S. models. It is only for the EGR controls.

Unlikely your EGR stuff is still working, and the engine will run fine w/o it. You can find a diagram here of all EGR components you might remove, will about half the number of under-hood vacuum devices and tubes. You can also buy EGR block-off plates to remove the valve (~$20 Rollguy here). That will make getting at the alternator bolts much easier. If you also re-route the high-pressure AC hose, like me, it will only mildly frustrate you when loosening the alternator. But, insure no EPA drones are watching you.

The metal clip is still on my injector tubes. I recall the intake manifold pressure-sense tube is secured by it, though the tube always pops out of the clip so doesn't help much and "isn't needed".

While discarding junk, don't forget the useless "aux water pump" which can leak coolant and cause your dash to catch fire.

Graham · #6 09-29-2017, 08:18 PM

I also have a 1985 300D in Canada. I searched through EPC, but couldn't find that bracket that holds the torpedo shaped connector plus one other.Not to say it isn't there though. On mine the torpedo part is fine but one half of the outer clips that hold the rectangular connector have broken (I moved it out of the way). But all you need, is a couple of tie-wraps to hold it there.

The clips that go onto the injection pipes are I think shown in EPC section 7.105 (injector pump) You would need a pair of 3120780285 plus bolt (N304017005002) and nut (N000934005008).

The extension clip that seems to be for a cable is shown greyed out meaning it is not used on my 85. It is there, but not used on my engine. Again, if you just want to attach a cable, tie-wraps work fine! Or you could bend a piece of metal and make the clip.

dennislarock · #7 07-04-2021, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

I had that black torpedo housing in my 1985 CA 300D. Since I installed an earlier engine w/o the IP rack position sensor, the car-side wires are just hanging. Indeed, I was recently pondering what they used to go to. If I recall, you pop open the torpedo and will see small individual spade connectors. The rack sensor applies to 1984 & 1985 U.S. models. It is only for the EGR controls.

Unlikely your EGR stuff is still working, and the engine will run fine w/o it. You can find a diagram here of all EGR components you might remove, will about half the number of under-hood vacuum devices and tubes. You can also buy EGR block-off plates to remove the valve (~$20 Rollguy here). That will make getting at the alternator bolts much easier. If you also re-route the high-pressure AC hose, like me, it will only mildly frustrate you when loosening the alternator. But, insure no EPA drones are watching you.

The metal clip is still on my injector tubes. I recall the intake manifold pressure-sense tube is secured by it, though the tube always pops out of the clip so doesn't help much and "isn't needed".

While discarding junk, don't forget the useless "aux water pump" which can leak coolant and cause your dash to catch fire.

Old Thread... but, I just dropped an '83TD engine in my '85TD and I am having issues with some wiring.

1) Tach '83 uses crankshaft rpm sensor. I have the tach amp from the '83 and it was working a month or so ago when it was in the '83 wagon.

2) Kick-Down wiring... there is a wire (two wires actually) on the '85 that went to a switch on the valve cover that the '83 does not have. Kick-down is not working.

Anyone who has dropped a pre '84 OM617 into an '85 please chime in.
Thanks
dennis

dcraigk · #8 07-04-2021, 11:36 AM

Not sure about #1

#2: The switch on the valve cover shuts down the AC compressor when you floor it.

Diesel911 · #9 07-04-2021, 12:48 PM

I have been using this site to look up transmission parts. Note the fuel injection stuff is in the engine section.

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/

dennislarock · #10 07-04-2021, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcraigk

Not sure about #1

#2: The switch on the valve cover shuts down the AC compressor when you floor it.

Thanks!!! One down, One to go.

Darn Tach!